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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey there Jemsite. Even though I am currently working on my repaint of one of my 540R's I bought some electronics for the next project I will be tackling once that is finished. I have a JS100 that I will be stripping down to bare wood... and I bought (on ebay) an AZ series HH switch assembly complete with the switch, voicing switch... POT's all wired together. My only issue is... Where to I solder the pickups lol? So in the picture you can see it plainly says Ground, cold, hot, cold, hot and then above that is some text referring to the pickup in which to solder. Seems pretty cut and dry. This is essentially for my reassurance of my thoughts, all my ground wires... (bare and green in this case) go to ground...? That's 4 wires going to that small terminal... Now I can solder them all together, heat shrink tube them... and run a single wire to that spot, that's not a problem. And then the hots and colds go to their specific locations. Take a look and let me know what you think. Also if there are any AZ owners reading this, if you could snap a picture of your HH config'd AZ switch I'd appreciate it.
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I assume you're installing DiM?

Stock, it's like this:


So, for the Duncans, it looks like the neck side (bottom to top) is white, black, green, red, bare. The bridge side is (bottom to top) black, white, red, green, bare.

For putting in DiM, it would be (again, bottom to top) black, red, green, white, bare (neck); red, black, white, green, bare (bridge).

A tad less fiddly than the old Proline push-button circuit, which has no helpful markings :LOL:.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes!!! Thank you. That is what I was hoping to see. Thanks so much. It'll make the possibility of having to redo everything a lot less likely. Although it is sort of confusing looking at that... It looks like your humbuckers have 2 different colors for hot or cold depending on the neck or bridge position?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Nevermind 🤣🤣. I was only looking at the one end... I see they are wired from each end of the pcb.

My assembly has dime sized pots not full size... Are yours full size? I can't tell if the picture is just playing games with me... I'll probably switch to full size pots.
 

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Sure thing. The wires for each pu seem to follow a different order as to which terminal they go into. What I translated into DiM terms would give you the same options as stock.

Oh, this is not my actual guitar. I don't have an AZ, but I've been looking into them a bit as there's not much information about how to do the wiring, since people have started yanking out their Hyperions and wiring harnesses to sell online, and some have asked questions about the dyna mix system.

They all seem to have mini Alpha pots (500k).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah I see that. I am glad they are removing the electronics because I don't have $2500 to buy an AZ lol. But yes I can see where everything goes. I have a DiMarzio and Semour Duncan color code sheet so I'll be able to cross in 2 different ways. I am excited to start this but it's gonna be a little ways off. If it stays warm through fall (I live in the state of Maryland in the USA... Just slightly north of Washington DC) I'll be able to get the body painted. But I have to fill in some control holes for the volume and selector switch... Relocate the volume pot hole, and make a slotted hole for the 5 way selector. It's gonna be an interesting project!
 

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Indeed! I don't know if it's possible to get the switch as an oem part; I looked at Rich's inventory and he doesn't have them. There's a diagram floating around someone drew up of the 9 system using a super switch and on/on 9PDT, so it's possible to replicate the HSS scheme without proprietary bits.

It'll be cool to see this in a JS, it's an apt guitar for this kind of scheme. After a dry spell, it's nice that people are posting projects and builds again on the forum.

The Radius is going to look fantastic. I was looking with some temptation at a sad husk of a 1991 blue burst on Squeebay recently. Someone attempted to scallop the neck and did a total hack job; screwdrivered out some of the trem cavity (presumably to get more upward travel) and cut the neck pu slot for a hb. Would be a serious fixer-upper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I saw that one! It Looked awful lol. I thought about buying it just for the body... But that price is too high to justify. The HSH radius guitars are tough to find. I'm glad I snatched one up last October.
 

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The neck would've needed serious work - either committing to a proper scallop or removing the frets and planing down the fingerboard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have an ultra neck... That's why I considered it for a minute. I don't think planing that fretboard would have been viable. That damn thing was so destroyed. The guitar it self is only worth about $300 because of the damage to the neck, and the sad condition of the body.
 

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Hmm, it was hard to tell from the photos how deep those scallops went, they seemed to be confined to the treble side mostly. I was also wondering whether the truss rod was maxed out..

I don't disagree with your assessment :), but people sell necks and bodies separately these days for up to $250 in various conditions (ok, I see stripped Ultra neck for $425!). Pity though, when someone hacks up a nice thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Wow $425?? I didn't know they could go that high. Mine has a little fret wear, 2 small dings on the back of the neck and those awful 80's shark tooth inlays... But it's still an ultra!
 

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Hmm, an ultra neck with sharkteeth - what guitar did this come on back in the day?

The $425 one is from a 1987 guitar, just a plain dot neck, no hardware. The thin satin finish or whatever they put on in Fujigen has been stripped so the neck looks very dirty, and the fingerboard needs some work (steam out dings, dress frets).

Mm, there are some folk who overestimate the value of what they've got. I saw a PR1550 body recently someone was asking almost $600 for... It is Cherry Ice, which is a desirable colour on 1985-86 guitars, but, c'mon. You can find a whole, working guitar for that price, or less 🤷‍♀️, and one that doesn't have the wonko Pro Rock'r bridge.
 
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