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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I would like share and ideia about the string action you use. I recently got my first JS and I'm still trying to get the best action...at the moment I have high E at 1.5 mm on 12th fret and G on 2mm on 7th fret. I feel that in high E is confortable, but in G on 7th fret os still high. How do yours works? Thanks
 

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I would like share and ideia about the string action you use. I recently got my first JS and I'm still trying to get the best action...at the moment I have gimp freejobalert notepad++ high E at 1.5 mm on 12th fret and G on 2mm on 7th fret. I feel that in high E is confortable, but in G on 7th fret os still high. How do yours works? Thanks
I also have the same question. Some help is appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Regards,
Oliver
 

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Giving measurements of 2 different strings on different frets won't tell you what the neck is doing.

Measure the high and low e from the peak of 9 and 24/[22]. You can go 7 and 12 just make sure to include the last fret.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Giving measurements of 2 different strings on different frets won't tell you what the neck is doing.

Measure the high and low e from the peak of 9 and 24/[22]. You can go 7 and 12 just make sure to include the last fret.
thanks for the feedback. I took JS to a professional luthier. he performed fret grinding and lowered the action as possible. It turns out that E high and E low are comfortable in action. but B, G, D and A, especially G and D are still high. I think it's due to the shims under the saddles. would removing or replacing them with thinner shims be a viable option to make the action more comfortable?
 

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The shims are there to match to the 250mm radius of the frets. If you want to check how accurate roll the bridge down till the strings lay just off the frets and see if they're high or how much the radius match is off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The shims are there to match to the 250mm radius of the frets. If you want to check how accurate roll the bridge down till the strings lay just off the frets and see if they're high or how much the radius match is off.
Well I realized that there could be less relief in the neck. so I adjusted the truss road. By pressing the E low on the 1st fret and the 24th, measuring on the 9th fret has a minimum of relief, passing an easy sheet of paper. so I think this is correct. Improved the action of the G and D strings, but now something happened that I do not understand: when playing E low open I noticed buzzing. And the intriguing thing is that it has a good nut height of about 0.5 mm. What is the cause of this low E buzz?
One last question: my action is E high 1.2mm and G 1.6mm at 24th fret. In G-string it is possible to get lower action or that's already the limit, assuming I would like to get the smallest action possible.
 

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You could have a high fret. I recently sent my js24p to be refretted. When the luthier filed down your frets, i wonder if he maintained the same radius it had. I prefer to have about 5 degrees of relief with my guitar necks. Thats almost perfectly straight. It's tough to measure if you have a high fret if you don't have the right measuring tools. Does it buzz at all when pressing on frets? Or only open?
 
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