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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I was wondering if anyone could give me tips on restringing my Ibanez RGR652AHB that has an Edge trem bridge. I have successfully done so in the past, but it was always a painful, trial and error process. I'm pretty busy with school right now and so the last thing I want is to go down a multiple hour rabbit hole of trying to get it strung.

First off, all of my strings are off. Typically, I usually just unscrew the trem claw screws just enough to be able to put the springs in easy, and then I install the strings, screw the claws in, and then just tune and play around with the trem screws until I get it level.

I was wondering if anyone could give me a quick run through on an efficient way to get my guitar strung, given the strings are all off and i'm willing to play around with the claw screws. Also, could anyone recommend me a good trem block? I know there's a lot of home-made ways of blocking my trem, but I was looking to buy one just for the sake of having one I guess.

Any input would be appreciated.
 

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Ideally leave strings on, and do one at a time. However, if you've taken them off:

If your strings weren't too old, and you're not changing gauge, then you should get away with just tuning as per normal (Low E (leaving is a smidge sharp on first round), High E, A, B, G, D)


If the above doesn't work, then you probably need to rebalance your string/spring tension.


Use the trem arm to move the bridge to the optimum angle (the visible tab of the knife edge inset is parallel with the body). The take some playing cards and put them between the trem block and the body (on the back of the guitar).

Then set all the fine tuners to the centre (makes life easier later), then tune up using the normal tuners. I like to stretch the strings a bit as I install each one. Then remove the playing cards. Ideally your trem will not move, but if it drops down into the body, then use your screwdriver to adjust the the claw to body distance. Making sure equal numbers of turns, and the claw remains level to the cutout.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I really appreciate the input.

I've been sticking my trem block right under the bridge after I lift it. You're saying I need to put it in the well in the back of the guitar?
 

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I use a lint free polishing cloth stuffed under the back of the bridge, I try to shove enough of it in there that the trem sits level on the bridge even when the strings are slackened off. Using a cloth protects both the guitar and the bridge because there's enough "give" in the cloth that nothing gets damaged.

That way I can remove all the strings and clean and oil the board before restringing without having trouble lining everything up afterwards. I then use the tuner to get the strings broadly to pitch before whammy bar diving to remove the cloth and then "actually" tuning up to pitch.
 

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What a palava, just stick some wadded up cloth under the back of the bridge, cut all the old strings off, thread the new ones through the tuner leaving the ball end there, run the string down the guitar and snip it off at the fine tuner, clamp it in, rinse and repeat for the other five, now tune up to pitch and remove the cloth, stretch the strings thoroughly and retune, lock the nut and play. Job jobbed.
 

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Thanks, I really appreciate the input.

I've been sticking my trem block right under the bridge after I lift it. You're saying I need to put it in the well in the back of the guitar?
Either or really. All you're trying to do is keep the bridge at teh correct angle it floats at. So in theory, when your guitar is in tune the bridge is floating at the correct angle. By blocking it at that angle, all you're doing is making it quicker/easier to retune without all the string skipping tuning faff.
 

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You can use ball end side of string in tremolo saddle too.
When string is going around ball and back, then wound, you have part of string that is doubled. If cut across that, you can use that double part of string for better grip in saddle.
This works for wound string. Just need to make sure that string leaving saddle is in center.

Other thing that nobody mention is when you bringing strings to pitch, when you tune up one string all other go flat,
so when tuning string always tune it few semitones up, next string tuning up will bring previous near pitch.
Coming closer and closer to desired pitch you need to make this up tune smaller and smaller.
 

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Here's my method. I push down on whammy bar, (dive bomb) & put an old trem cavity cover under the rear of the bridge. I remove all the strings, clean up the fretboard. Then I put the strings in backward ball end at the tuners & don't clip the balls off. Then I clip all the strings
all at once at the fine tuners. Insert stings into string locks tune & stretch to taste & voila all done. No adjustment of springs required, trem stays on the posts, & is ready to play in no time.
 

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Or, you could install FU TOne tremstoppers......I'm old school and like a "dive only trem." I just love that stability. I LOVE the FU TOne tremstoppers...so easy to install and work just perfect. Improved string/body vibration, too. Sure makes string changes a breeze ,....although I've always only changed out only one string at a time.
 

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Yeah you could put a trem stop in there, but what's the fun in that. Nothing quite like that squeal from hitting that harmonic & pulling the hell outta that bar. One of the joys of having a real edge trem is hard you can abuse that whammy bar & still have a working trem that stays in tune.
 
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