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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I'm starting some rg560 body work and have the idea that I want to block certain areas of the top-mount HB rout and rerout it for direct-mount. I figure I will need to fill the lower adjustment screw routs then block the 'wings' and rerout them with a smaller wing for direct-mount. Here is my question..

I've read somewhere that when blocking and filling routs, it's a real PITA the get rid of seams, or if you do flush them out, wood movement over time will bring the seems back.

Please share your opinions? No biggie, go for it? Waste of time? Potential disaster? I figure if it's not logical I can live with rings or maybe even a pick guard, but I would love a clean Prestige look. I hate colored rings and black is going to clash with my color scheme.
 

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It's not that you'll see seems every time. If you fill the cavity in properly, and with the correct, non-shrinking glue, you'll be ok. The key is filling the cavity with as much wood as possible. Are you filling in the entire cavity?
I'd say go for it....It's the only way you'll learn how to do something like that and...if you do mess it up a bit, you can always re-do it. Also, get a good non-expanding wood putty. As was said before, the other alternative is to cap it or put a veneer on it which itself has drawbacks.
 

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I tried this once and thought I did a good job. Temperature wasn't my friend, as winter came by and treated both body and filler block differently. Even glue-less ultra-tight dowel seams showed up.

Only solution was to put a pick guard over the thing.

Is that an idea for you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies.

Veneers and pick guards are an option but I don't think I want to go that far for such a small detail. I may just live with rings instead.

@TMatt142, I like your suggestion that it can be a learning experience, that is definitely my intention with this project. I did not intend to block the entire rout, but cut two pieces for either side which would only require the small wing divot to be removed after install, then sanding as needed. Perhaps that is the wrong direction to take?
 

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You'll find it easier to to route all the material out that is between the pickup ring screw holes then fill/route with your favorite tonewood.

I'm actually starting this process on a couple of RG760 bodies tomorrow........

I'll post some pics as I'm going.
 

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You'll find it easier to to route all the material out that is between the pickup ring screw holes then fill/route with your favorite tonewood.

I'm actually starting this process on a couple of RG760 bodies tomorrow........

I'll post some pics as I'm going.
That's actually a great idea. That would keep the guitar's vibrations (and other variables such as heat/humidity/cold) from causing a seam to appear over time better than anything I can think of.
 

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Why not just fill the hole up to the depth you need? Then you can use an epoxy wood filler to build up the "wings" and cut them to the appropriate shape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Why not just fill the hole up to the depth you need? Then you can use an epoxy wood filler to build up the "wings" and cut them to the appropriate shape.
Any suggestions for the right product to use? I just bought minwax putty because it was the thickest thing they had, then got home to read it doesn't even harden. :p I was going to get some Stewmac grain filler, can't I use a small, un-thinned glob of that stuff?
 

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Why not just fill the hole up to the depth you need? Then you can use an epoxy wood filler to build up the "wings" and cut them to the appropriate shape.
this will be an ugly alternative that will NEVER accept paint the same as the surrounding wood. I got delayed on my project, but I'm starting tomorrow morning..........I'll post pics during the day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Bummer, such a small area to be affected I hoped that was an easy option. I definitely wouldn't go through the trouble just to have finishing issues, wouldn't make sense.
 

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Your best bet is to cut a piece of your favorite tonewood to the size/shape of the cavity. The tighter it fits, the better, and use a little bit glue on the sides to account for wear/vibration so that it never falls out. Then sand it flush with the rest of the body.

You'll have to put a solid-color finish or a veneer over it though...because it's not going to be pretty. No matter what you do, you'll be able to see that it's not the same piece of wood as the rest of the guitar lol So you might as well cover it up.
 

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this will be an ugly alternative that will NEVER accept paint the same as the surrounding wood. I got delayed on my project, but I'm starting tomorrow morning..........I'll post pics during the day.
Could be, but it's a lot easier and less severe than routing out a giant chunk of the body. If he's repainting anyway, I don't see the issue here. If he messes this up, he still has the option of doing it your way. If he messes up your proposed method, things get more difficult.

As for product, I wish I could recommend one, but I don't know the brand name that was used on mine. I do know that the fellow who was teaching the guitar building course I took swears by it.

As for whether it's worth it or not, I would say no. There are lots of people out there routing custom bodies. For all the work you're doing, you could start with a body that fits your needs, and save time, and potential screw-ups. As well, you could sell your old body and recoup some of the costs if you wanted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
As for whether it's worth it or not, I would say no. There are lots of people out there routing custom bodies.
This was precisely the conclusion I came to, and kept the mindset for the last few weeks that I would use a pickup ring.

However.....

I couldn't help myself today. As I was fixing some damage with Dap Plastic Wood, I started eyeballing that pup rout again and accepted the challenge, haha. I figured if the finish acts weird I can always slap a ring over it, all I would need to do is re-drill the holes. My hope is that the amount of prep work, grain filling, sealing, and multiple primer coats will negate any issues, we shall see. Here's where I'm at so far, still some more filling at the bottom to do and shape refinements. I simply traced the top-right existing 'ear' 3 more times.

1/8" at a time, per directions


Got the sides straight then cut the existing ear back out and traced the others in


Camera angle has it skewed but I measured out a cardboard template
 
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