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marianozz said:
about two inches past the saddle :)
I usually cut the high E and B about 3" past the saddle and the G about 2.5". I end up with about 6 wraps on the E, 5 on the B and 4 on the G tuning posts. When I break a string at the saddle during practice, I just loosen the locking nut, unwind the string, re-clamp the new end in the saddle and tune back to pitch. This method allows me to avoid changing a string and my guitar is back in service in less than a minute or 2.
 

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ScreamJem7 said:
I usually cut the high E and B about 3" past the saddle and the G about 2.5". I end up with about 6 wraps on the E, 5 on the B and 4 on the G tuning posts. When I break a string at the saddle during practice, I just loosen the locking nut, unwind the string, re-clamp the new end in the saddle and tune back to pitch. This method allows me to avoid changing a string and my guitar is back in service in less than a minute or 2.
hmm.... you may be on to something ;)
 

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ScreamJem7 said:
I usually cut the high E and B about 3" past the saddle and the G about 2.5". I end up with about 6 wraps on the E, 5 on the B and 4 on the G tuning posts. When I break a string at the saddle during practice, I just loosen the locking nut, unwind the string, re-clamp the new end in the saddle and tune back to pitch. This method allows me to avoid changing a string and my guitar is back in service in less than a minute or 2.
If you're cutting the strings that far beyond the saddle and getting 4 or 5 wraps around the post, then what's the point in doing the reverse stringing? You can do exactly the same thing by cutting off the ball end and leaving yourself a couple of inches of slack before you wind the string onto the post. I tried reverse stringing once, and it chewed up the finish on my tuners. Never again.

The original poster in this thread (magenta placenta) wanted to install locking tuners to speed up string changes. Proposing to him that he reverse his strings and still have 4 or 5 wraps around the post makes no sense.

I love locking tuners for their speed of tuning. If that's what you want, then i say go for it. But there are others locking tuners out there that will do the job just as well, such as the aforementioned Schallers, Gotoh Magnum Lock (which might be a direct retrofit for the tuners on your JS) and Planet Waves AutoTrim tuners (designed by Ned Steinberger).
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I already have a set of Sperzels, so there'd be no additional cost other than a luthier installing/drilling them, which is around $50. I think they remove/reattach the neck (and setup?) to do the job, but not entirely sure. I just have the $50 quote right now.

I also have Sperzels on a G&L strat and have never had any breakage/slippage problem - they seem like great tuners to me.
 
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