[magenta placenta]

No locking nut problem, just want faster string changes and nothing beats locking tuners for this. I have a set of 6 inline Sperzels, thought I could actually put them to use now...

 

[Kontalonis]

Do you string your guitar backwards (as in the ball end hits the tuner), this eliminates the need for locking tuners and lets you change strings faster.

 

[Andelusion]

Yeah just straight through your tuners with the non-ball end part of the string then clip off however much is necessary when you get to the bridge then just tune up.

 

[buddroyce]

To answer your question, yes you can install Sperzel locking tuners on a JS1000.

 

[Minsc]

I've got some on a Jem DBK I bought from a guy here on Jemsite.
So, I wouldn't see why you couldn't on your JS.

 

[magenta placenta]

Do you string your guitar backwards (as in the ball end hits the tuner), this eliminates the need for locking tuners and lets you change strings faster.

where do you personally cut the non-ball end to eliminate crazy wrapping?

 

[TheOrangeChannel]

where do you personally cut the non-ball end to eliminate crazy wrapping?

You don't...you put the ballend in the peg....and run the castrated end thru into the bridge saddle...

 

[sniperfrommars1]

No reason why you couldnt you may have to drill a little here and there, but only a small amount, and most sperzels have a non-revealing hole that is drilled that would be hidden by the original tuners

 

[King Knall]

If you don't mind me saying this but...aren't Sperzels quite useless on guitars with a locking tremolo?

 

[tTz]

I think he wanted them to make string changes faster rather for any tuning problems or anything like that.

 

[darren wilson]

Zero to 360° in only 10 posts!

 

[jim777]

Zero to 360° in only 10 posts!

:lol:

 

[sniperfrommars1]

For string changes they are a breeze, so i can see someone wanting to use them somewhat in that regards

 

[marianozz]

where do you personally cut the non-ball end to eliminate crazy wrapping?

about two inches past the saddle

 

[ScottB]

about two inches past the saddle

I usually cut the high E and B about 3" past the saddle and the G about 2.5". I end up with about 6 wraps on the E, 5 on the B and 4 on the G tuning posts. When I break a string at the saddle during practice, I just loosen the locking nut, unwind the string, re-clamp the new end in the saddle and tune back to pitch. This method allows me to avoid changing a string and my guitar is back in service in less than a minute or 2.

 

[marianozz]

I usually cut the high E and B about 3" past the saddle and the G about 2.5". I end up with about 6 wraps on the E, 5 on the B and 4 on the G tuning posts. When I break a string at the saddle during practice, I just loosen the locking nut, unwind the string, re-clamp the new end in the saddle and tune back to pitch. This method allows me to avoid changing a string and my guitar is back in service in less than a minute or 2.

hmm.... you may be on to something

 

[magenta placenta]

I'll have to try that reverse stringing before possibly comitting to Sperzels.

 

[red5]

If you don't mind me saying this but...aren't Sperzels quite useless on guitars with a locking tremolo?

They are entirely and more than that, why would anyone use Sperzel locking tuners? They slip and they break a lot. Get Schallers.

 

[darren wilson]

I usually cut the high E and B about 3" past the saddle and the G about 2.5". I end up with about 6 wraps on the E, 5 on the B and 4 on the G tuning posts. When I break a string at the saddle during practice, I just loosen the locking nut, unwind the string, re-clamp the new end in the saddle and tune back to pitch. This method allows me to avoid changing a string and my guitar is back in service in less than a minute or 2.

If you're cutting the strings that far beyond the saddle and getting 4 or 5 wraps around the post, then what's the point in doing the reverse stringing? You can do exactly the same thing by cutting off the ball end and leaving yourself a couple of inches of slack before you wind the string onto the post. I tried reverse stringing once, and it chewed up the finish on my tuners. Never again.

The original poster in this thread (magenta placenta) wanted to install locking tuners to speed up string changes. Proposing to him that he reverse his strings and still have 4 or 5 wraps around the post makes no sense.

I love locking tuners for their speed of tuning. If that's what you want, then i say go for it. But there are others locking tuners out there that will do the job just as well, such as the aforementioned Schallers, Gotoh Magnum Lock (which might be a direct retrofit for the tuners on your JS) and Planet Waves AutoTrim tuners (designed by Ned Steinberger).

 

[magenta placenta]

I already have a set of Sperzels, so there'd be no additional cost other than a luthier installing/drilling them, which is around $50. I think they remove/reattach the neck (and setup?) to do the job, but not entirely sure. I just have the $50 quote right now.

I also have Sperzels on a G&L strat and have never had any breakage/slippage problem - they seem like great tuners to me.