For those that can't tell it'll be a fake Maxxas, with a regular neck pocket and solid body (no chambers) it's a single piece of Mahogany, no glue joints, and it's from decades ago when a guitarist friend of mine saved the piece of wood from someone who had started chiseling a backgammon board onto it. It was big enough for 2 bodies, the other will be a carved top Soloist style. It is so light weight it doesn't need to be hollow!
Looks like it'll be another cool one, Frank! I'm curious -- after the initial rough cutting, are you doing all of your shaping, contouring, etc entirely by hand? If so, what tools do you prefer to use? rasp, sanders, spokeshave...? Just wondering because your work always seems to come out well.
The roto rasp in the top of the first picture is the weapon of choice for all the bulk material removal, then the random orbital sander to clean it up and for the main sculpting. Belt sanders are great, too, I just don't have a good one so the rasp has to do for now. This mahogany is so light weight, well aged, and crisp that it cuts like lettuce. Final shaping is razor blades and files. The flatness of blades and files won't lie. That's how you put the factory straightness into it, rather than the home-built lumpiness.
Thanks for the info. I've been using a rasp, an orbital sander, various sized sanding blocks and some sandpaper-on-PVC pipe things for the deep contours. I've had trouble with lumpiness on light, porous basswood, but have done OK with most other woods. (But yours always look better...)