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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently acquired a replica of Richie Kotzen's RG from the 80s, but I'm a tad stumped on what its bones are.

I'm largely unsure if the Edge 3 is stock on whatever body this is. To my eye, the route around the bridge seems too large compared to the routing on other Edge 3 bodies - Namely around the baseplate and pull-up/recessed area (whatever that's formally called).
The neck is stamped as an RG270, but I can't find any 270s equipped with an Edge 3. There's also no identification on the body, only a date stamped on the neck pocket. So I'm assuming the guy who put this together sort of frankensteined some parts.

I'm mostly curious if this Edge 3 may be an exeption in-terms of possible bridge replacements. Even though this bridge hasn't given me any issues so far, I'd love to get an Original Edge on there.

Thanks!
17150
17151
 

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Looks like routing for a TRS (also known as the DL Standard) trem. If the body is also 270, then it would check out. The RG270 was made 1994-2002, most of the time equipped with a single locking system which shared the same footprint as the TRS. They moved to double locking in 2002.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Looks like routing for a TRS (also known as the DL Standard) trem. If the body is also 270, then it would check out. The RG270 was made 1994-2002, most of the time equipped with a single locking system which shared the same footprint as the TRS. They moved to double locking in 2002.
That’s believable. The original listing said it was an Edge Zero, so yeah, he likely put a different bridge on a 270 body.
So in-terms of replacement, I’m still essentially stuck on the OFR? (I like the design, but I’m loving the seamless feel of the Ibanez trem)
 

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Any OFR derived trem should fit - so, Schaller, Gotoh GE1996T (favoured by many here) etc.

To fit an Edge/Lo Pro, you may have to modify parts of the cavity for a proper fit. Old thread about doing a conversion: Lo TRS / Edge III / other to Edge or Lo pro conversion. There used to be a tutorial with pictures on projectguitar.com but the links are broken, unfortunately.

Note that if you're moving to Edge/Lo Pro and upgrading the studs/anchors, the Edge/Lo Pro ones are longer and have a bigger diameter, so some drilling is required. Also applicable to GE1996T.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Any OFR derived trem should fit - so, Schaller, Gotoh GE1996T (favoured by many here) etc.

To fit an Edge/Lo Pro, you may have to modify parts of the cavity for a proper fit. Old thread about doing a conversion: Lo TRS / Edge III / other to Edge or Lo pro conversion. There used to be a tutorial with pictures on projectguitar.com but the links are broken, unfortunately.

Note that if you're moving to Edge/Lo Pro and upgrading the studs/anchors, the Edge/Lo Pro ones are longer and have a bigger diameter, so some drilling is required. Also applicable to GE1996T.
Nice.
I’ve read somewhere that if you upgrade an Edge 3 to an OFR, you can drop in Schaller studs instead of drilling for OFR studs.
Is that actually a viable option? (Having said that, I think I may be more interested in a Gotoh if it’s not much work)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Any OFR derived trem should fit - so, Schaller, Gotoh GE1996T (favoured by many here) etc.

To fit an Edge/Lo Pro, you may have to modify parts of the cavity for a proper fit. Old thread about doing a conversion: Lo TRS / Edge III / other to Edge or Lo pro conversion. There used to be a tutorial with pictures on projectguitar.com but the links are broken, unfortunately.

Note that if you're moving to Edge/Lo Pro and upgrading the studs/anchors, the Edge/Lo Pro ones are longer and have a bigger diameter, so some drilling is required. Also applicable to GE1996T.
Nice.
I’ve read somewhere that if you upgrade an Edge 3 to an OFR, you can drop in Schaller studs instead of drilling for OFR studs
 

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I'm not sure, I think Schaller and OFR studs are more or less the same? and with the TRS style trems, they would fit in the anchors. One reason people change them is the tolerance betwen the stud and the anchor being important for tuning stability - with the higher quality trems, it's pretty tight, there's little if any wobbling, and Gotoh/Edge have locking ones to make everything rock solid. In the long term, this also matters as the loose tolerance can cause the studs to lean and even work themselves loose, especially in basswood guitars.

I think the Floyd Pro should also be a direct drop-in. It's got the lower profile but a slightly narrower string spacing than an OFR.

Have a look around the forum, there's quite a few threads on the topic as lots of people have had similar queries.
 

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What makes the gotoh so much better as a drop in is there is no need to worry about stud spacing. One side of the bridge doesn't have a U shaped socket to fit the stud in. It's flat, so it can accommodate multiple stud spacings. Plus it's an awesome trem. I've got guitars equiped with OFR, a Schaller, a gotoh, an edge...and a lo pro edge. The gotoh is as close to the edge's in quality that is out there. Plus it's inexpensive. And the push in/screw in style arm is just great. It has a set screw in the harm holder collar so you can adjust how tight the bar feels.
 

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Yes I used Schaller studs for my gotoh because the insert was the same diameter. The js100 I had done this to no longer had the inserts though, I am not sure how difficult it is to remove the originals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes I used Schaller studs for my gotoh because the insert was the same diameter. The js100 I had done this to no longer had the inserts though, I am not sure how difficult it is to remove the originals.
Heard you can use the back of a claw hammer to carefully remove them, not 100% on that though.
Will definitly consider this route though, thanks!
 

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^^ Yes, this is one way of doing it. Make sure to score the paint around the studs with a knife/razor (if needed), so there's no chipping/flaking when you pull them. A hammer with a longer claw is preferable, so it's easier to get the appropriate torque with less exertion.

Out of interest, here's a comparison of the TRS and Gotoh studs/inserts - quite a difference!
 
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