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Hi everyone, i just bought a Rgix6dlb-snb. it has an edge zero 2 bridge(without zero point system) on it. i ask the dealer to change the strings before i take it to home.

First the guy loosen all the strings and didn’t put anything under the bridge. i said he should put some cloth etc under the bridge and after loosening all the strings he accepted but the bridge already tilted backwards by the force of the springs. So he want to pull it by hand and put a cloth under it and the bridge’s up knfe edge pop up from it’s position and he gently put it back in.. but i am worried if the knife edge damaged or scratched.. i take it to home, now it flutters well but what do you think? Should i do something or not?

And my second question is about action height. i want to lower the bridge, should i take of the strings and springs before turning the allens of the bridge?
 

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These knife edges are pretty solid. I doubt the incident you described caused any real damage. If the bridge looks and performs well, then you have nothing to worry about.

I would suggest loosening the tension from the bridge (or, even better, removing the trem altogether) before adjusting the height of the studs. Best to avoid metal to metal contact while twisting the stud.
 

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I've never bothered slacking off the strings to turn any of my FR pivots, as long as they're lubed up and you're turning them slowly a small amount you won't damage anything. Both the pivots and the knife edges are hardened steel and just skate over each other.
It is possible to be overly precious about this stuff, whilst it doesn't do any harm it's completely unnecessary.
Blame my engineering training for my blasé approach.
 

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EZ, EZ2 and the current generation ED/LP have the hardest knife edges they've ever used. The EZ/EZ2 also have the hardest studs. Even previous ED/LP/EP are excellent quality. No slacking necessary.

Edge Pro 2, Edge 3, have horribly soft knife plates and studs and prudence is advised.
 

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Sounds like the tech you're using isn't terribly familiar with FR style trems. I tried GC ONCE. They did such a horrid job on my RG350 I learned to do it myself. I even bought the Ibanez EJK-1000 intonation tool. I then modified it to work on any trem I own, which is a pretty wide assortment. In the time it takes me to drive to GC I can string my own trem & have it set up ready to play. As long as I don't change string guage or tuning it's about 20 minutes. Plus $75 per set up.
 

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Sounds like the tech you're using isn't terribly familiar with FR style trems. I tried GC ONCE. They did such a horrid job on my RG350 I learned to do it myself. I even bought the Ibanez EJK-1000 intonation tool. I then modified it to work on any trem I own, which is a pretty wide assortment. In the time it takes me to drive to GC I can string my own trem & have it set up ready to play. As long as I don't change string guage or tuning it's about 20 minutes. Plus $75 per set up.
me too, i never change string gauge or tuning once i have a guitar in the tuning i want it so it's super easy to set up.
 

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EZ, EZ2 and the current generation ED/LP have the hardest knife edges they've ever used. The EZ/EZ2 also have the hardest studs. Even previous ED/LP/EP are excellent quality. No slacking necessary.

Edge Pro 2, Edge 3, have horribly soft knife plates and studs and prudence is advised.
Kinda OT i know - The Edge 3 on my Jem 555 still held tuning well, although i did need to get a jewelers file on the blade to sharpen it up every few years. Needles to say I eventually put a Gotoh in which did need some minor routing with a dremel on 1 off the wings cavity to fit. Much better sustain/tone.

The Edge 2 I always felt was a very good trem, but could probably do with a chunkier aftermarket brass block for better sustain.
 
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