[komorok]

Hi, to get the frets really exact you can make a mathematic scheme. To get it right you have to put in a little more effort to it than just calculating the high and the low string fretpositions and draw a line between them. If you place the fretsaw just half a millimeter wrong, yor fretboard will be ruined.

I can give the "formulae" you it, but since it will take a loong time to write it down it would be nice to know if you are still interested.

Micke

 

[komorok]

I guess there will be questions... And I'm not sure how to attatch pictures yet... but here we go.

oups... the 500-number in the last equation shall be Xa

 

[komorok]

darn I suck at this...
anyone... how do you upload pictures...?

 

[komorok]

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u205/komorok/PICT3652.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u205/komorok/PICT3653.jpg

hope you can use these links

I guess there will be questions.

the 500-number in the last equation shall be Xa. I'm to lazy to change it now...

Well, if you make this drawing you can place to very straight steelrulers along the lines and let them be your guide for the fretsaw. A one meter long line is more exact than a 70 mm long...

 

[komorok]

http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u205/komorok/?action=view&current=PICT3656.jpg

I updated the equations to incooperate a variable so it it possible to choose which fret is perpendicular to the centerline of the fretboard.

I made a program on my Texas TI82. Otherwise the calculations would take a serious amount of time!

I guess this is a little to complicated for some people, so if you need help I will gladly give it to you. Just give me the scales and width of the saddels and the stringspacing at the nut and which fret you want to be perpendicular. I guess the most usual is fret 12...

Man, I sound swollen up.... I assure you I only wish to be helpful