Ibanez JEM Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've been modifying a RG570CT (one way truss rod) and my next step is to install the frets.
I need to minimize the upbow caused by the fret tangs (hopefully not) although I've already cutted the slots a little bit wider than the fret tangs that I'll be using.
Is there any trick, method, technic to achive this? Like start installing the frets from the middle to the sides, install them alternately, straightforward and pray......??? :)
Anyone with experience on the subject?
It's my first time doing all of this so any help or insight is very very welcome.

https://flic.kr/p/43838444484 https://flic.kr/p/30686368218 https://flic.kr/p/43838445104
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
547 Posts
I've been modifying a RG570CT (one way truss rod) and my next step is to install the frets.
I need to minimize the upbow caused by the fret tangs (hopefully not) although I've already cutted the slots a little bit wider than the fret tangs that I'll be using.
Is there any trick, method, technic to achive this? Like start installing the frets from the middle to the sides, install them alternately, straightforward and pray......??? :)
Anyone with experience on the subject?
It's my first time doing all of this so any help or insight is very very welcome.

https://flic.kr/p/43838444484 https://flic.kr/p/30686368218 https://flic.kr/p/43838445104
Backbow you mean of course, you don't say whether you're hammering them in or pressing them, it doesn't make any difference which order you put them in or how, as long as they're rolled to correct radius and fully driven home, if the slots are now too big you may need to glue them in place with CA, I put the CA in the slot with a syringe first then install the fret.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Backbow you mean of course, you don't say whether you're hammering them in or pressing them, it doesn't make any difference which order you put them in or how, as long as they're rolled to correct radius and fully driven home, if the slots are now too big you may need to glue them in place with CA, I put the CA in the slot with a syringe first then install the fret.
Yeah backbow, always confuses me

I'll use a hammer. Got the rest under control! :)

My doubt was if the order matters somehow... if not , even better!

Thank you!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,647 Posts
haveing a fret radius bender is almost essential unless you plan on planing down to a 20 inch or greater radius. I always over radiused my fret wire, cut to rough size, give each side (treble and bass) of the fret a slight tap to make sure the fret won't rock and then give a good tap in the middle to help seat it. It may take a couple of taps over the length of the fret, the most import thing is consistency and a lighter touch. Hammering the fret too hard could warp it out of shape.

the ideal setup would be to have a radius block to check your neck radius is consistent when you pull the old frets. a long straight edge to make sure the neck is a straight as it can be, a fret wire radius/bender, good nipper/***** to cut the wire, dead blow hammer for hammering in the frets, fret files and crowns, lots of blue painters tape and a marker.

Once you have verified everything is good, you have your frets in, tape the frets off. take a marker color the tops of the frets, take your radius block, put some higher grit sandpaper on it (like 320) and run the block with the paper on it over your new frets. This will tell you if you have any high or low frets. If they are good the marker will wear off the frets evenly, if you have high spots there will be no marker left, low spots will have all the maker left.


from experience make sure your slots are as clean as they can be, this helps the fret seat better. If your slots are too big for the tang on the fret wire, you may want to invest in a tang crimper. It does exactly what you think, it crimps the tang to help it expand out more to fill the slot. If that doesn't work, you may have to actually glue in the fret, stew mac makes some really low viscosity super glue designed for this exact purpose.

when you cut the fret wire cut it so that your nipper line up like these parentheses ( T ) . Doing it this way keeps the fret from deforming as much.

You'll also want to either make or buy a jig that holds your end file at a consistent angle relative to the surface of the fretboard. This will give a uniform profile to your fret ends.

if this is your first time, buy a cheap guitar and try it out on that first. It took me a couple of tries to get the technique down where I would feel comfortable doing on something i actually intend on playing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
547 Posts
Unless I miss my guess you're going to have to precut all the frets and undercut all the tangs accurately first which means having them rolled to the correct radius because you're installing them in a bound fretboard.

I cheated and looked at the pictures first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've been practicing on how to install frets without breaking stuff :) my only concern is how to get the minimum backbow after the fret installation
cause the truss rod is useless to straighten the neck for fret levelling and I don't have a neck jig.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Unless I miss my guess you're going to have to precut all the frets and undercut all the tangs accurately first which means having them rolled to the correct radius because you're installing them in a bound fretboard.

I cheated and looked at the pictures first.
:D

Already done I'm just waiting to bang them :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've just fretted a couple of Ebony fretboards and even under string tension I still had to use the truss rod to get enough relief into the neck
Can I ask why you installed a 1 way truss rod?
I wasn't sure if a new double action truss rod measurements would fit properly on the existent route.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top