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green meanie

1564 Views 10 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  123ahull
I was wondering which wood I should use for a green meanie replica, I want to use alder for tonal qualities but I want to stay faithful to the original? which is basswood, curious what you guys think.
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why would you custom build a guitar to NOT sound like how you wanted it to? If you want a "real" green meanie, go buy one in my opinion. stick with what you want, alder and basswood dont have THAT much tonal differences anyway
yeah, basically same tone, but basswood just dents too easily.
well denting is not a problem on this one, LOL.
I am torn because I want it to be as close as possible to the original, I have gone to some serious lengths to get all the stickers to make this the right way, (I am cloning the final sticker'd version), I now have a full set of the original stickers, so having gone that far I don't want to stray from the original, I am only going to get one shot, when we're done it should be a damn close copy. It's tough because I look at from two perspectives:

i) make it with the improvements I would have liked to have seen in it.
or
ii) make it a faithful clone of the original (I have a very good chance of pulling it off)
I think basswood and alder sound quite different. Alder is brighter than basswood, basswood is neutral to dark sounding depending on the piece.
I think basswood and alder sound quite different. Alder is brighter than basswood, basswood is neutral to dark sounding depending on the piece.
Agreed!

123ahull. I would try and find a green slime Charvel So Cal and call it a day. :D
You should use the wood that sounds best to your ears. No one else is going to care, and if you don't like the sound, you wont play it.
It's going to be covered in lacquer, no one will no your secret ;)
Aaaaactually, I was able to locate a great picture of the back of the guitar with good resolution and there is a huge swath of paint missing on the back, probably a third or better is missing, so the wood will be clearly visible as it is worn right through the primer? As I agree if the paint were not worn through, this question would be irrelevant because no one but me would know, and I would just do what I want, but the wood will be very visible. Do you go the purists route, or go with the customized route?
It took a huge amount of time and money to locate these stickers, I can seriously understand why it has not been done before (if it has I couldn't find any reference to the project), but now that I have done it, I keep going back and forth about the body material, I can change the pickups or even the neck, but I don't think finding these stickers again can be done easily, at least I won't be doing it again, as it took almost 9 months to secure 1 complete set!
So it all comes down to the body it is the only decision left to be made. I appreciate the feedback and this is not a fool's errand, I have to make a decision soon as I have everything now and the body has to get started soon.

Thanks
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If you're going to replicate the missing paint on the back--you're in for more work than expected. If going the "purist route, are you going to paint and clear, then sand that strip down the back?
Yeah, we're going to strip the paint or maybe mask it and feather the edge later, although I don't think we are going to clear it, because I don't think the original was clear coated (not sure though), most likely we will just seal the raw wood after sanding? I understand how much work it is, it will be worth it though as I was able to find some great photos and have everything to make this almost a dead nutz copy. I even bought a period correct neck plate had the serial # milled off and the right one laser engraved on, I also a picked up a vintage floyd rose with age appropriate "wear" and dimarzio tracked down a vintage pink bobbin that was old stock for the neck pickup (their new pink is terrible IMO), not to mention tracking down all the 25 year old stickers.
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