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both my handmade classicals cracked all over the finish due to extreme winters when i was in the uk (i had no heating) and as jaken 777 pointed out thats the reason they are in the uk and im in australia, they would not take the trip well.
 

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Take a hair drier and buzz over a guitar that has been painted with lacquer for a few minutes and you'll see that it will start getting soft, then it will actually make a wet shiny spot in the paint, and if you touch the area it will be wet paint
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That would have to be some cheap laquer, or a very fresh paint job. Imagine the temps a black/clear coated laquer paintjob reaches on a car in the middle of summer. Several hundred degress. Maybe if you replace the hairdryer with a heat gun.
 
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phantoms said:
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That would have to be some cheap laquer, or a very fresh paint job. Imagine the temps a black/clear coated laquer paintjob reaches on a car in the middle of summer. Several hundred degress. Maybe if you replace the hairdryer with a heat gun.
I wouldn't say a guitar gets several hundered degrees in the car in the summer.....MAYBE 150 TOPS, but 200 +.....Maybe if you were in the bahamas when the paint index is at 125. If you picked up a guitar that was over 200 degress it would probably scald your skin (severly burn it) Just think if you set the eye on your stove to 200, then after it gets to that tempature laying your hand on it........not good. NEVER felt a guitar get that hot just off sun light. A car, maybe, b/c its metal, and if it did reach 200 and it was painted in lacquer you could probably take ur fingernail and not only indent the paint b/c its softening up, but probably peel it up too with your fingernail where it was getting soo hot and beginning to lose adhesion and transist back into the liquid state from the solid state. When it cools off in the evening it would of course go right back into the solid state. This cycle is what causes lacquer paint on cars and guitars to not last very long, fade very fast, and begin to actually burn off (more so on cars in the burn off/oxidation category), ever seen a hood or roof of a car where the paint is literally about gone from oxidation? It always happens on the hoods, roofs and trunks 1st b/c those are the panels that are exposed more directly to the light and get the hottest, you will not find this as often with base/clear paint jobs in urethane, however it is VERY common with lacquer. With lacquer its not a question of will it fade, will it crack, will it oxidize off, but rather when will it.

And yes, a hair dryer will do it on ANY lacquer, cheap or good, the only thing BETTER about GOOD lacquer is not its re-flow Tempature, ALL lacquer's have the same reflow tempature, which is around 175 degrees, but the higher quality solvents (expecially the tail solvents) that help it lay down slicker when coming out of the gun. I know for a fact you can reflow lacquer b/c I set the bake on our booth to 175 and it re-wet it in about 45 mins (it takes a while to get the booth up to that temp, and a while to get the part up to that temp as well)

Give me a Gibson LES PAUL and a hair dryer and I'll make a wet spot on it in about 7-10 minutes or less......give me a heat gun and it'll be wet in 15 seconds or less.
 

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Thanks again SCS. Absolutely brilliant. You should seriously consider your own website on painting guitars - it would definately be in my favourites. That is if you don't have your own website already. Thanks again.

Wolfram
 
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Wolfram said:
Thanks again SCS. Absolutely brilliant. You should seriously consider your own website on painting guitars - it would definately be in my favourites. That is if you don't have your own website already. Thanks again.

Wolfram
Thanks Wolfram, I do have a website for custom painting, from cars, trucks & motorcylces, to art sculptures & guitars. Its www.simscustomshop.com
 

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You all make excellent points but are forgetting a big reason why Guitar makers are using poly: its becoming illeal to shoot lacquer in production situations! The poly is LOWER VOC! Auto industry is now required to use ONLY waterbased base coats in So cal and other areas, most other areas following in less than 2 years. Doesnt apply to clear YET! Furniture industry following also. It does require more knowledge to shoot poly clear also, wait till you get solvent pops, fisheyes, and blushing! Not for the novice finisher, you must also get the special catalyst, AND reducer, and should use sealer first! good luck!
 
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