Ibanez JEM Forum banner

21 - 40 of 69 Posts

Registered
Joined
78 Posts
Guitar techs would be out of business in the same way car shops would be out of business if everyone changed their own oil.

Enjoy your trem and your half step of pull-up range 馃憤
 

Registered
Joined
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Guitar techs would be out of business in the same way car shops would be out of business if everyone changed their own oil.

Enjoy your trem and your half step of pull-up range 👍
Half step of pull up range? What does it mean tho that i can pull up higher than normal or lower than normal?
 

Registered
Joined
424 Posts
a half step is a semi tone... aka one fret sharp in pitch. Which is noticeably less than normal which is evident of the abnormally high/buried bridge angle. I have sent you a private message with a picture showing you proper bridge height about 2 days ago if you haven't seen it already.
 

Registered
Joined
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Hello guys, I adjusted the angle and ended up with this, I think the line on the side is almost level with the top of the body, but this raised the action a little bit, so no I need to lower the action of the high strings from 2.0 to 1.5mm on 12th fret. I don't even have the tool to unlock the post screws as bought guitar used. I had no idea it had to be unlocked as I have never seen a tech do the setup in front of me.

 

Registered
Joined
424 Posts
Looks dead on to me. The tool is actually pretty reasonable on amazon. I bought the ibanez brand intonation tool for $38 shipped about a month ago. It can be done without it though. If you remove your springs and pop the bridge off you can adjust the intonation. Then pop the bridge back on, put your springs back in and retune... The multi tool is like $20 with all the allen keys and what ever else is on there.
 

Registered
Joined
69 Posts
Hello guys, I adjusted the angle and ended up with this, I think the line on the side is almost level with the top of the body, but this raised the action a little bit, so no I need to lower the action of the high strings from 2.0 to 1.5mm on 12th fret. I don't even have the tool to unlock the post screws as bought guitar used. I had no idea it had to be unlocked as I have never seen a tech do the setup in front of me.

That looks nice and level. If you don't have one, I recommend getting the ibanez multi tool MTZ11 as a bare minimum - contains all the tools you'll probably ever need for setting up an ibanez. It also has the hex key for unlocking the trem studs
 

Registered
Joined
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
When I want to adjust the action, do I have to unlock the string lock screws, you know the ones that stick out the bridge? maybe I'm confused about that

My only concern is what happens when is time to change strings, if I remove all the strings at once, this could alter the bridge angle, so I would need to use something to block the bridge and change one string at a time. There is this tremblock but I don't know if it will work. There also wedges that you can put in between the block.

https://skyscraperguitars.com/store...olo-Setup-Blocks/p/75945611/category=25043259

I'm going to ship my guitar in the future for the sustainer installation, but they will probably remove all the strings at once and leave it like that for days, so I'll have to put one of these wedges or something in there
 

Registered
Joined
424 Posts
When you raise or lower the bridge you do not need to unlock the nut. It may go very slightly sharp or flat in tuning... but that shouldn't be too hard to adjust. To adjust the action all you need to do is adjust the bridge posts height, no need to loosen anything but the set screw in each post. The allen screws protruding behind the bridge are the screws that cause the string clamping block to clamp the string in place in the saddle.

I have these in my guitars to aid me in quick restringing and or setup. One is just a tremolo stopper (the green guitar has this one) it makes it easy to do a good cleaning or string gauge change for easy intonation adjustments. The other is an All-Parts Tremol-no. It allows you to make your trem a dive only or give you a hard tail bridge effect. I also use it when I restring because I can lock the bridge in place. The other picture has the saddle screw circled. This is where the intonation is adjusted. It helps a lot if you have one of these to adjust intonation on a floater.

https://www.amazon.com/Ibanez-EJK-E...1612044364&sprefix=ibanez+into,aps,141&sr=8-1

These things come in handy. If you don't have one though, the trem stopper or the tremol-no make it easy, just wind in the trem stopper screw or lock down the tremolo-no.... loosen the string that needs intonating, unlock the saddle screw, adjust the saddle... lock it all back down and retune. You can achieve a similar effect with those wedges though.

Here's a full description of intonation adjustments

http://www.ibanezrules.com/tech/setup/intonation.htm

If you do have a method of blocking the trem so it stays flat, restringing is much simpler. Having a trem blocking\locking method makes the setup much simpler. Though just replacing one or two strings at a time works fine too. As long as you stretch and tune each string... or every 2 strings before moving on you should be able to keep your trem angle correct and everything in tune.
 

Attachments

Vendor
Joined
26,318 Posts
I haven't used an intonation tool in 20 years, a turbo winder is your best friend and far faster. Even faster if you just set the E and D and know where the rest are going to naturally fall depending on which bridge it is.

They sell wood blocks for $10 when you can roll up cardboard for free?

I will still never, ever, block a floater level and pull the strings. The trem will blow off the studs with the slightest jolt, or if well lubed, just by looking at it wrong.
 

Registered
Joined
424 Posts
Yeah I have had a bridge pop off before. I Do it once in a while though to clean everything. I am probably pretty weird when it comes to keeping the crevasses clean lol. I just bought that ibanez tool a month ago, I have not used it yet, but I had an amazon gift card... figured I'd give it a try.
 

Vendor
Joined
26,318 Posts
Always block at the highest angle, the bridge will never blow off. Have one crack the clear on the cavity of a DNA and you'll learn too. And I've never or will ever change one string at a time, it takes longer and at some point you're going to have to learn to pull them all or you'll never be able to clean the fretboard.
 

Registered
Joined
424 Posts
Right well, with a trem stopper, all I would need to do is wind the stopper set screw in place, remove the springs... remove the strings, pop the bridge out, clean the fret board... put the bridge back in. Then use one spring, install the strings, pop the other one or two springs in. Tune it, wind the stopper out, and I am back to normal. Or for just cleaning the borad without removing the strings just remove the springs, set the bridge aside and clean the board. Put the bridge back in and put the springs back in. And then you're back to normal. Of course you know all this, But there are other ways of doing the same thing. Honestly...for cleaning, I should probably just start doing the second description. xD
 

Vendor
Joined
26,318 Posts
And the least amount of steps would just be to block the bridge at maximum angle and pull the strings [I always pull the string retainer bar]. Do whatever you want, clean, polish, oil, maintain, tighten tuners, etc, then put the new strings on and tune. Of course knowing about how much tension to put on each string to keep them all sharp to make sure you detune into tune takes some practice. Tune up to tune too much and you know you'll end up in runaway spring shock, which is a whole other tech page.
 

Registered
Joined
424 Posts
Yeah I getcha. I know you know your stuff. These are just methods I have come up with on my own... given what I knew. before my JS I never had a floating trem, only a dive only floyd setup. I had to figure things out on my own before finding this forum. I found this forum and your website when I put together a parts Ibanez! I am thankful for that. I am a road mechanic, sometimes you just make do with what you have around you lol. I do admit my way takes much less experience, it's more steps for sure.
 

Vendor
Joined
26,318 Posts
There is no right and wrong, there is only easier and safer, all of which could be argued. I taught myself, and retaught, and changed, and found easier ways, sometimes easier leaves it more prone to accidents, sometimes it's just easier. It's just lots of experience. There are at least 4 ways I fix loose body anchors, none of which they'll teach you in "luthier school" where they want you to plug, dowel, and mickey mouse ears. IMO all just to pad the bottom line and make a 1/2 hour job into a 3 hour job. I prefer much less invasive techniques where you can't even tell it was done now.
 

Registered
Joined
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
I haven't used an intonation tool in 20 years, a turbo winder is your best friend and far faster. Even faster if you just set the E and D and know where the rest are going to naturally fall depending on which bridge it is.

They sell wood blocks for $10 when you can roll up cardboard for free?

I will still never, ever, block a floater level and pull the strings. The trem will blow off the studs with the slightest jolt, or if well lubed, just by looking at it wrong.
so what about that tremblock device, what's wrong using that to block the bridge and change the strings? A lot of people use that to change strings. I've watched videos of people doing that without any issues.

I'm going to ship my guitar for sustainer install. They will probably have to remove all the strings and will remain like that during the installation until they restring it. I doubt they could do this sustainer install without removing all the strings as the electronics are behind the pickguard.

If they remove all the strings, this is going to mess up the trem angle. I was thinking of putting something like a wedge in between the block and shipping the guitar like that. Is this a bad idea? Would this mess up the bridge?

I'll probably have to get another setup or readjust it everything myself after the sustainer install if I just ship it without anything
 

Registered
Joined
424 Posts
Honestly chances are they will have the skills needed to return your guitar to you with it set up properly. I don't think you should be too concerned about it. Though they will likely just remove the bridge with the strings still attached, then put the bridge back in and put the springs back on.
 

Vendor
Joined
26,318 Posts
I will still never, ever, block a floater level and pull the strings. The trem will blow off the studs with the slightest jolt, or if well lubed, just by looking at it wrong.
Answered

Honestly chances are they will have the skills needed to return your guitar to you with it set up properly. I don't think you should be too concerned about it. Though they will likely just remove the bridge with the strings still attached, then put the bridge back in and put the springs back on.
Chances are they won't, but he should know how to reset it by now so what does it matter. He's paying for a sustainer install, not a setup. But if they know what they're doing they'll just pull the bridge with the strings on and do the work, then put the bridge back on and everything is as it was.
 

Registered
Joined
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
Answered

Chances are they won't, but he should know how to reset it by now so what does it matter. He's paying for a sustainer install, not a setup. But if they know what they're doing they'll just pull the bridge with the strings on and do the work, then put the bridge back on and everything is as it was.
What about the shred tremblock that a lot of people use to block the trem and change the strings? Is this useless, risky, dangerous?

I would just change the one string at a time, I have all the time in the world.
 
21 - 40 of 69 Posts
Top