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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So of course, as my luck would have it, after only having my 30th Anniv. Jem777DY for a month I somehow managed to put 3 small dents in the back of the neck around the 7th fret due to casually leaning the guitar up against a coffee table as I went to go grab another beer. Perhaps in my relaxed drinking state I was a little rough with placing the guitar against my improvised guitar stand and the next morning when I picked her up I felt the dings.


Of course it has to be that the other guitars I've owned for 8 years do not have any dings in the back of the neck somehow, even tho I've been much rougher with them over the years. My Jem777 is to be a full player and not bought for collector purposes but those little dings are now really bothering me because they mar the otherwise flawless feel of the neck.


Do I bother to try and get them fixed or do I just say screw it and accept them as the first of probably many battle scars the guitar will acquire over its lifetime with such a brute like me?:devil:
 

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I won't comment other than to say you could try to steam them out with a soldering iron & very damp rag. Maybe practice on a small maple block first (cut a foot of banister from home depot).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I won't comment other than to say you could try to steam them out with a soldering iron & very damp rag. Maybe practice on a small maple block first (cut a foot of banister from home depot).
I've read about that. Would I have to refinish the neck after doing this? I've looked online but can't get the exact info on what kind of finish is on the necks of the 30ths...feels like satin? Would this behave like a gloss finish neck or like a tung-oil neck?

Thanks
 

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refinish is not needed (or desired). the idea is you're adding moisture back into the highly compressed wood (ding) so it expands back. Then lightly use 0000 steel wool along the back to smooth/blend everything. If it were a thick gloss finish you could just drop fill with superglue, etc. There are lots of good/details articles how to do both.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
refinish is not needed (or desired). the idea is you're adding moisture back into the highly compressed wood (ding) so it expands back. Then lightly use 0000 steel wool along the back to smooth/blend everything. If it were a thick gloss finish you could just drop fill with superglue, etc. There are lots of good/details articles how to do both.
Great. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Been researching but it seems that the satin finish will not allow for the steaming method. Can anyone comment on this? Thanks.
 

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You can't steam thru clearcoat. Unless the wood underneath is very wet and it can create it's own steam to swell back up, but it's not.
 

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battlescars are best on the body (not neck) but since the $3500 guitar is already devalued 20% and not a collectable in the next few decades you have some choices if the acrylic is thick on the rear:

1. leave alone - best choice if dings are barely noticeable any more.
2. lightly feather sand trying to smooth the dings at the edges
3. superglue fill
4. remove the clear and have an awesome neck (oil it after the dings come out).

Enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
battlescars are best on the body (not neck) but since the $3500 guitar is already devalued 20% and not a collectable in the next few decades you have some choices if the acrylic is thick on the rear:

1. leave alone - best choice if dings are barely noticeable any more.
2. lightly feather sand trying to smooth the dings at the edges
3. superglue fill
4. remove the clear and have an awesome neck (oil it after the dings come out).

Enjoy!
Thanks for both posts. Yea I certainly will never lean a guitar neck against a hard surface again. Sucks I had to learn the lesson with what is probably my favorite guitar, and certainly my most expensive. Amazing this has never happened on any one of the other 7 guitars over an 8 year period. Murphy's law (or maybe that neck wood is just softer?)... I have thought about stripping the finish off the neck now that it's already imperfect because I have a few oiled necks and love love love them. Do I have to strip the finish off the fingerboard as well if I do this? Do you have a specific tutorial in mind to get the finish off the 777 30th?

The last thing I want to do is ruin a $3000 guitar:smile_big:
 

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For sure. You don't touch the fingerboard only actual neck rear (assuming that's where the dings are). clearly it's soft (maple) wood unless you really dropped the axe against the table it shouldn't ding. The old tech area on jemsite seems lost but you remove the neck and slowly sand up and down going to 0000 steel wool (or equivalent micro). i'm sure many good articles online. again probably worth trying on a piece of test wood (easy to do and find). good luck either way maybe leave it alone for a week :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
For sure. You don't touch the fingerboard only actual neck rear (assuming that's where the dings are). clearly it's soft (maple) wood unless you really dropped the axe against the table it shouldn't ding. The old tech area on jemsite seems lost but you remove the neck and slowly sand up and down going to 0000 steel wool (or equivalent micro). i'm sure many good articles online. again probably worth trying on a piece of test wood (easy to do and find). good luck either way maybe leave it alone for a week :)
Yea, ya know, even after a day they seem to bother me much less. I only run into them once in a while when playing, and it does give the guitar a bit of it's own unique character (hey it feels different than every other Jem 30th out there:grin2:) Don't get me wrong, if I could take them back I would. But it's a reminder to be more careful. Plus I'm sure Clapton's famous Blackie didn't have a flawless neck either :lol:

Thanks for your help.
 

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Hah! You should see my old Roadstar 2. Finish cracks, dings, & finger grooves on the fretboard. Looks like it was gigged by a rockstar. So if you still have it after it turns 30, it's probably not going to appreciate monetarily, but it will still be your go to.
 
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