I've got a JEM body that is routed for an Original Floyd Rose. Idealy I want to have a Lo-Pro in it and even if it doesn't fit the original cavity of the body then I'm confident I can route it out. I'm just wondering if it is really worth the effort to route it out for a Lo-Pro? Are the Original Floyd Rose's any good compared to the Lo-Pro's, if so what model do people suggest?
Lo-Pro compared to OFR
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IMO, you'd do fine with an OFR. Alot of folks will say that the Edge is far superior, but if you go to a site that isn't based on mostly Ibanez lovers, chances are you'd get the polar opposite. It's just a matter of opinion.
Personaly, if it were my guitar, I'd just stick a Floyd in it, and be done. If I bought a guitar with an Edge, I'd stick with it, too. I really don't think they are THAT much different, to be bothered with.
You might want locking studs, though. Even then a lot of people play locking trems without them, and are perfectly happy.
Personaly, if it were my guitar, I'd just stick a Floyd in it, and be done. If I bought a guitar with an Edge, I'd stick with it, too. I really don't think they are THAT much different, to be bothered with.
You might want locking studs, though. Even then a lot of people play locking trems without them, and are perfectly happy.
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The original floyd is not just as good athe edge but close enough, the best thing you can do is maybe try using ibanez locking studs with the original floyd rose. the original floyd has good tuning stability, and has a different vibrato bar attachment, so your going to have a completely different feel
I'm sure an OFR will do a good job it's just at the back of my mind, I want ibanez parts. I've got a JEM7DBK now so if I take the Edge Pro out and see if it fits the cavity then maybe I can use an EP? Are EP's interchangable with Lo-Pro's or Edge's? I really want to look at my options. This JEM I'm making is going to be expensive so I want to get it the best I can.
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Hi, I'm a new user (though I've lurked at Jemsite before). You all have a great site and forum here!
I'm trying to figure the OFR problem out as well. I have a Warmoth body, routed for the OFR, but I really, really want to have an Edge in there. The body I have is lacquered already, so it will be near-impossible to do this mod cleanly, but I'm willing to live with the damage if it means I can have an Edge in there.
As for my bias on the various Floyd trems -- I have a 2000 Mirror/Black UV777, and it's the nice Ibanez I always wanted growing up. I like non-Ibanez guitars better, yet it seems obvious that the Edge is a superior trem. What I want to do is combine it with Planet Waves / Sperzel locking tuners, and an Earvana nut. I think this would be the best hardware setup ever, and justify the extra guitar.
IMO Edge installations always have a certain sensitivity, and light feel, that OFRs never seem to have. So, I have a gold LoPro Edge on order from Sam Ash. I can return it for credit if I need to, but I'd sure rather not. Here are the two routing diagrams:
http://www.ibanezrules.com/images/parts/edge_manual.pdf
http://www.floydrose.com/pdf/Floyd%20Rose%20Pro%20tremolo%20routing%20templates%20(top%20view)MM.pdf
I see that I'd have to widen/deepen the routs in some areas to get it to sit correctly. The potential showstopper, though, is that the two specs show that the anchor studs are spaced a little differently. The Edge's anchors are spaced at 74mm. The Floyd is spaced at 73.91mm.
So the answer to the question of "is this job worth doing with the right tools" really seems to boil down to this difference. Can anyone comment on the following:
1)
Is there enough room in the LoPro Edge's knife blades to account for this .09mm difference? The right blade (I think) is a V, so no play there -- the difference would have to come from the straight blade on the left side.
2)
If the Edge system cannot use OFR anchor points, then the anchor points must move -- and in looking at the diagrams myself, I feel pangs of worry. In comparing the two diagrams, it seems that each hole must move 0.45mm away from the centerline; would this be correct? If so, I would mark the new locations carefully with a grease pencil fill up the existing anchor holes with an industrial filler/sawdust mixture, and redrill. As long as I'm close enough to fit within tolerance on the Edge's left blade, I can live with any string drift on the fingerboard. Right?? :-D
Has anyone here ever installed a LoPro Edge (or any Edge, really) into a guitar body professionally-routed for the OFR? If so, were you able to use the existing OFR anchor points?
Thanks!!
I'm trying to figure the OFR problem out as well. I have a Warmoth body, routed for the OFR, but I really, really want to have an Edge in there. The body I have is lacquered already, so it will be near-impossible to do this mod cleanly, but I'm willing to live with the damage if it means I can have an Edge in there.
As for my bias on the various Floyd trems -- I have a 2000 Mirror/Black UV777, and it's the nice Ibanez I always wanted growing up. I like non-Ibanez guitars better, yet it seems obvious that the Edge is a superior trem. What I want to do is combine it with Planet Waves / Sperzel locking tuners, and an Earvana nut. I think this would be the best hardware setup ever, and justify the extra guitar.
IMO Edge installations always have a certain sensitivity, and light feel, that OFRs never seem to have. So, I have a gold LoPro Edge on order from Sam Ash. I can return it for credit if I need to, but I'd sure rather not. Here are the two routing diagrams:
http://www.ibanezrules.com/images/parts/edge_manual.pdf
http://www.floydrose.com/pdf/Floyd%20Rose%20Pro%20tremolo%20routing%20templates%20(top%20view)MM.pdf
I see that I'd have to widen/deepen the routs in some areas to get it to sit correctly. The potential showstopper, though, is that the two specs show that the anchor studs are spaced a little differently. The Edge's anchors are spaced at 74mm. The Floyd is spaced at 73.91mm.
So the answer to the question of "is this job worth doing with the right tools" really seems to boil down to this difference. Can anyone comment on the following:
1)
Is there enough room in the LoPro Edge's knife blades to account for this .09mm difference? The right blade (I think) is a V, so no play there -- the difference would have to come from the straight blade on the left side.
2)
If the Edge system cannot use OFR anchor points, then the anchor points must move -- and in looking at the diagrams myself, I feel pangs of worry. In comparing the two diagrams, it seems that each hole must move 0.45mm away from the centerline; would this be correct? If so, I would mark the new locations carefully with a grease pencil fill up the existing anchor holes with an industrial filler/sawdust mixture, and redrill. As long as I'm close enough to fit within tolerance on the Edge's left blade, I can live with any string drift on the fingerboard. Right?? :-D
Has anyone here ever installed a LoPro Edge (or any Edge, really) into a guitar body professionally-routed for the OFR? If so, were you able to use the existing OFR anchor points?
Thanks!!
A DBK has a Lo Pro, not an Edge Pro...KevJEM7D said:
Best you could put in a Jem is an original Edge, or a Lo Pro... since you already had it routed for an OFR (god knows why!), go with that...
And the only interchangeable ones are the Edge and Lo Pro...
Take care...
You have spent more time with the detailed dimensions than I have, but let me add a few comments.Bolt Thrower said:
1) The right blade of the Edge/Lo-Pro is round (not a V), so as you correctly pointed out, the .09mm would be taken up on the flat left knife. You would be slightly off centerline, but that shouldn't be a big problem.
2) Edge studs and OFR studs are pretty different, and I am not at all certain you can use the OFR studs with an Edge. Frankly, I wouldn't want to put an Edge on there and be stuck with OFR studs ... I would want the locking Ibanez studs. Make sure the OFR studs are actually an option, and that you don't have to replace them anyway with the bridge.
3) If you have to replace the studs anyway, fill the old holes (do a good solid job there) and put the Edge studs exactly where you want them.
4) The original Edge needs the most clearance in the back in order to not hit the body when pulling up (as compared to the LPE or EP... or OFR). Those diagrams will show you how much material you will have to remove to make them fit. With a router, it is a pretty simple job to trim out (especially with a flat top, such as on an RG/Jem). It will take longer to make a template (so your cuts will be clean) than to actually do the cutting. All you need is a router, a straight bit or a template bit, and some chisels and sandpaper to clean things up.
But having said all that, I haven't done it ... so maybe someone else has first-hand experience with this one.
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Thanks for the reply, Ryan. I'll have the replacement Edge in 2-3 weeks.
Since the anchor holes are moving outward, the new holes should still have natural curvature (i.e. original wood, not filler) on three sides: at the front, rear, and outside. If my filler is good enough, it should work for the inside curves. So the direct front and rear of each anchor will still be of natural wood.
Someone has to try it, I guess.
Since the anchor holes are moving outward, the new holes should still have natural curvature (i.e. original wood, not filler) on three sides: at the front, rear, and outside. If my filler is good enough, it should work for the inside curves. So the direct front and rear of each anchor will still be of natural wood.
Someone has to try it, I guess.
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Hmmm, I don't know if I'd worry about filling the anchor/stud bushing holes. The OFR anchors are smaller than Edge anchors in diameter so it's just a matter of a larger drill bit, and like you pointed out, the flat knife edge on the Edge trem (low E side) will sit slightly off center but not a big worry. I always heard the stud distance was the same on OFR/Edge trems anyway. BTW, did you consider the Flod Rose PRO model? It's a low profile Floyd, much like an Ibanez LoPro Edge. Very comfortable.
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CrossingStar -- if you're right, then this process will be much easier to deal with. I'll report back once I have the Edge in my hands.
I have considered a Floyd Pro -- that will be my backup if the Edge doesn't work out for me. But I have always loved Edges best, and have always wanted to have an Edge in a non-Ibanez guitar!
I have considered a Floyd Pro -- that will be my backup if the Edge doesn't work out for me. But I have always loved Edges best, and have always wanted to have an Edge in a non-Ibanez guitar!
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eelblack2 -- absolutely I will. In fact I will photo-document the process and post a little web page about it. Since I found it so hard to find info on this, that must mean there's a need. Should be worth a new thread. 
I have the Edge now, and the initial prognosis is looking quite good. The width of the Warmoth cavity is perfect up front -- the Edge already drops right in! And I mean perfect. It looks so clean with the Edge sitting there. Maybe 1.5mm to spare between both sides, and probably more like 1mm or less. With good anchor points, that should be all I need.
The rear of the cavity will need to be let out just a hair, and I'll deepen it as well. That should be no problem at all. I'll just take it really, really slow and try to construct a very square jig beforehand.
RE: Anchor points.... holes are already in the correct spot for OFR studs. I'm wondering if I could break with convention here and actually use OFR studs? Not only would that be easier and cleaner, in terms of final tone I could be better off "cutting my losses" here instead of re-drilling for Edge studs.
It looks like the Edge can use the OFR anchors but the knife edges will be pushed to the left, so the right knife will pivot on the left portion of its curve. The straight left knife will also pivot on its left half. My instincts tell me this will be OK -- the Edge is very well machined, in my view clearly superior to most Floyds, and I should fall within its available tolerance. This would probably affect intonation -- but I should be able to compensate for that with the Edge saddles.
[Also, I would like to have a Buzz Feiten nut installed along with locking tuners. Since each BF nut is custom machined for each instrument to provide its per-string adjustment, that should compensate quite nicely (plus I won't need the locking nut, which I have never liked).]
To argue the other side, if I redrill for Edge studs, its anchors are so much larger that the holes would overlap most of the existing OFR holes (if not all of them), so damage to the body's integrity should be minimal. The downside here, besides the chance for error, is that it would push the entire bridge back by about 2mm. I'd rather not do this, as it would require me to rout more out of the rear of the cavity, which would affect body tone and also not look as good on the body top near the bridge pickup.
So basically, while I've read about the superior quality of the Edge studs, I think I'd rather keep it simple and err on removing less wood from the body. Either way, installing studs after deciding will be permanent for this body. I've actually removed/replaced OFR studs before, and it ain't pretty.
What do you gents think? I'll be using a Dremel with router attachment (unless someone thinks I really shouldn't).
I have the Edge now, and the initial prognosis is looking quite good. The width of the Warmoth cavity is perfect up front -- the Edge already drops right in! And I mean perfect. It looks so clean with the Edge sitting there. Maybe 1.5mm to spare between both sides, and probably more like 1mm or less. With good anchor points, that should be all I need.
The rear of the cavity will need to be let out just a hair, and I'll deepen it as well. That should be no problem at all. I'll just take it really, really slow and try to construct a very square jig beforehand.
RE: Anchor points.... holes are already in the correct spot for OFR studs. I'm wondering if I could break with convention here and actually use OFR studs? Not only would that be easier and cleaner, in terms of final tone I could be better off "cutting my losses" here instead of re-drilling for Edge studs.
It looks like the Edge can use the OFR anchors but the knife edges will be pushed to the left, so the right knife will pivot on the left portion of its curve. The straight left knife will also pivot on its left half. My instincts tell me this will be OK -- the Edge is very well machined, in my view clearly superior to most Floyds, and I should fall within its available tolerance. This would probably affect intonation -- but I should be able to compensate for that with the Edge saddles.
[Also, I would like to have a Buzz Feiten nut installed along with locking tuners. Since each BF nut is custom machined for each instrument to provide its per-string adjustment, that should compensate quite nicely (plus I won't need the locking nut, which I have never liked).]
To argue the other side, if I redrill for Edge studs, its anchors are so much larger that the holes would overlap most of the existing OFR holes (if not all of them), so damage to the body's integrity should be minimal. The downside here, besides the chance for error, is that it would push the entire bridge back by about 2mm. I'd rather not do this, as it would require me to rout more out of the rear of the cavity, which would affect body tone and also not look as good on the body top near the bridge pickup.
So basically, while I've read about the superior quality of the Edge studs, I think I'd rather keep it simple and err on removing less wood from the body. Either way, installing studs after deciding will be permanent for this body. I've actually removed/replaced OFR studs before, and it ain't pretty.
What do you gents think? I'll be using a Dremel with router attachment (unless someone thinks I really shouldn't).
Well, it wouldn't be my choice, but if you like it and you think it will work then go for it. Be sure that you will be able to intonate it once everything is in position (with different diameter studs and all). A lot of people will tell you that you are nuts to do away with the locking nut with an Edge, but i'm not going to tell you what to do with your guitar. Let us know how it works out.
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I have a strat with sperzels and a graphtec nut (and a schaller floyd) and that's absolutely stable. I would say it is easily as good as the edge in terms of stability. As far as routing goes I have just fitted a schaller floyd into a trs cavity, and even that needed some routing to get the absolute maximum pull up. Although to be fair, it only had 2 strings on, so maybe it wouldn't have needed quite as much as all that!
I have seen some guitars that have the trem recess modified, and to be honest even wihtout painting you don't really notice that much. If it's a black body then a bit of paint and you are laughing.
I have seen some guitars that have the trem recess modified, and to be honest even wihtout painting you don't really notice that much. If it's a black body then a bit of paint and you are laughing.
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1,056 Posts
I would use Edge studs if possible. If you want to use OFR studs you should grind the tops a bit to make them more like Edge studs, you know how Floyd studs are more like \ / at the top where the Edge's are | |.
1. Wow you guys have way too much time and absolutely no technical common sense.
The 0.09mm difference is not due to actual difference but to rounding imperial measurements into metric ones - OFR, Schaller and Build Under FR patent (EDGE, Lo Pro and EDGE Pro included here) tremolos have the exact same post spacing - 73.91mm which is often rounded to 74mm for convinience.
2. The OFR route however is smaller on the sides (wings) and the back of the trem so more often than not it will require widening and extending to fit an Edge/Lo Pro/Edge pro.
Posts are different but will work regardless - OFR posts work with Edge's and Edge posts work with OFR so there's no need to change the inserts/posts if you want a different tremolo.
3. Edge Pro is swapable with Edge and Lo Pro - don't know who started the myth that it isn't - it is 100% drop in swapable.
4. OFR is a great bridge as is the Schaller FRII but people here are right - the Gotoh made Edge/LoPro/EdgePro have a different spongier feel.
ilia
The 0.09mm difference is not due to actual difference but to rounding imperial measurements into metric ones - OFR, Schaller and Build Under FR patent (EDGE, Lo Pro and EDGE Pro included here) tremolos have the exact same post spacing - 73.91mm which is often rounded to 74mm for convinience.
2. The OFR route however is smaller on the sides (wings) and the back of the trem so more often than not it will require widening and extending to fit an Edge/Lo Pro/Edge pro.
Posts are different but will work regardless - OFR posts work with Edge's and Edge posts work with OFR so there's no need to change the inserts/posts if you want a different tremolo.
3. Edge Pro is swapable with Edge and Lo Pro - don't know who started the myth that it isn't - it is 100% drop in swapable.
4. OFR is a great bridge as is the Schaller FRII but people here are right - the Gotoh made Edge/LoPro/EdgePro have a different spongier feel.
ilia
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