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There seems to be a LOT of mystery here. If you have a lo-trs or other crappy floating bridge, and want to swap in an edge...

It takes about 5 minutes to do. Simple method ->

I suggest the following parts/tools for the discerning DIY person who is timid and doesnt want to spend a crap ton of money to pay someone to do it.

Tools ->
- Dremel
- Flex shaft attachment (this is actually required, I dont see the possibility of doing this without)
- Not sure of the name, but one of those stone sanding bits with the flat bottom
- 220, 400, 600 grit sandpaper
- Black and clear nail polish
-masking tape
-Hair dryer (Not mandatory) NOT A HEAT GUN! NO NO NO

From a LO-TRS bridge to an Edge its SIMPLE. The posts are the same width. The problem is the depth and width of the edge over the Lo trs

Part one -> Prep

1) remove all hard ware. I suggest total disassembly of the guitar for freedom of movement

2) Measure out how much room your edge needs. What you can do is set your edge in the hole, and see where it "Catches". You want to clear about 3mm's away to give you room.

3) get your masking tape out, and put three (at a minimum) layers of tape to give yourself a line to work to. You want the tape to protect the paint if you slip. Do that all the way around the bridge cavity.

4) get your dremel ready, set your guitar on a STEADY work surface (kitchen sink haha). Put it on a towel and brace it against something or clamp it down so it doesnt move on you

Part two -> the fun bit

1) using your tape line as a reference, SLOWLY work your way into the finish, slowly getting to the wood.

2) work your way around evenly. You can eye - gauge this pretty well. Make sure to take your time and keep it simple

3) when you have finsihed your "rough pass". step back and make sure things are even. You want it to be equal mass taken away on both sides of the cavity. Dont forget to use the bottom part of the stone bit to flatten the bottom of the left side of the cavity (on RG's, S-series are already flat and will be MUCH easier to work on).

4) When you sized up and everything is proportional, its time to sand it flat. You can "Feel" this out pretty good. TAKE YOUR TIME and work your way through the grits.

Part three -> refinish

You can go a little over board here... but honestly...

You can find nail polish that matches pretty much any paint if your cavity is painted. Likewise, you can use other colors to get a good contrast color pattern.

After you have decided on colors(colours for the rest of the world), You can get started.

1) take a tack cloth or a barely wet cotton cloth and make sure you get the whole area clean. this is EXTREMELY important, so dont skimp.

2) Get your masking tape, and CAREFULLY mask the whole area off. Id suggest doing 2-3 layers of tape and using a razor to cut it exactly. Dont forget, gravity is in effect here, make sure you mask the BOTTOM as well.

3) take your base nail polish, and give it a good shake. Nail polish WILL settle, so make sure you do this

4) Taking your time, carefully brush the paint on. Use as little as possible here. This paint is extremely thick, and a little bit goes a LONG way.

5) Let it dry for a good half hour or so. Then take a hair dryer on high heat and run it over for a minute or so.

6) get your clear out, shake it up. Repeat the same process.

If you are super anal, you can paint correct, but in my opinion, if you take your time, and do a good job you really wont need to. You can use any auto body paint correction technique, but I think it would be INCREDIBLY hard to do...

Next, I recommend doing the "trem cavity dress" mod

http://projectguitar.com/tut/cavdress.htm

Thats it... its really that simple and will take you MAYBE an hour. If you have a good playing guitar, that you enjoy, and want to make it better, this is a really simple mod to do so.

For reference, you can see how much I took off here.

 
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