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Mandatory Modifications
Break-in / Spring Tension
These guitars take a while to break in. My friend has a new JEM7VWH, and it feels much stiffer than mine. When he picks up one of my old '88 JEMs, he says "wow, I love this neck". This is because it's soooo broken in... takes time!
Would it make sense to remove 1 of the 3 tremolo springs and readjust the trem system in order to achieve lighter string tension?
No. In my experience this can actually this can make the tremolo stiffer because the sTring tension remains constant, so you're putting more strain on the two sPrings. If anything, find 3 broken-in springs and replace the factory ones with those. New springs are often stiff until broken in for a few months. To speed the process there is a few easy ways:
The Springs are a bit mysterious, because if you buy a dozen of them, some are stiffer and some are springier. You can sand or grind down the outer edge of the coils to decrease the springs elasticity (this is a physics thing not my invention!) but I have never needed to do this.
String Tension
Bending about the 20th fret is difficult especially when bending the high E, B and G strings. Is there anything that can be done to achieve a lighter string tension?
What gauge strings do you use? I use .009 to .042s that ship with the JEMs. Realistically it's tougher to get any less tension, given the 25.5' scale neck which is higher tension than a shorter scale. The only way to significantly reduce tension is to detune a half step or use thinner gauge strings. This will lower string tension dramatically but alter sound.
I have looked at the tremolo springs at the back of my JEM10 and there are 3 of them in an 'arrow' configuration (like the picture in the instruction leaflet). Is this correct as I have seen pictures of Ibanez guitars with all 3 springs in a straight line configuration.?
IMHO the parallel spring alignment is the usual and customary setup method. Start with the parallel setup and keep it that way unless you have good reason to change. This works the best from my experience and puts an even pull on each spring. On the tremolo claw, use the two outer claws and middle claw. Ironically Ibanez ships new JEM/UVs with the straight pull whereas their instruction booklet show the angled springs to add confusion. On the tremolo block use the two outer holes and middle hole.
One reason to use the alternate method would be to generate more spring pull, if your springs are worn or alternate gauge (thicker) strings are in use and you need more tremolo tension to get the guitar back in tune (correct floating/neutral position). This will prestretch the spring a bit, since the outer springs have a longer distance (from claw to block) and thus are pre-stretched and will require more tension to fully stretch (ie. dive the whammy bar).
Neck Back Sanding
Most JEM necks come glazed with a light coat of Tsung Oil from Ibanez. While this is not a plasticy as many other manufacturer's neck backsides, it is not smooth enough for me. Only the JEM10 ships with an unfinished neck.
The only and best way to permanently fix your JEM/UV neck is to sand off the glazed coating on the back of the neck. This can done with the neck attached to the body with masking, but is best done with the neck removed. Your call however I highly recommend this modification. Once sanded smooth you can occasionally clean the neck with 600 grade sandpaper and 0000 grade steel wool.
Break-in / Spring Tension
These guitars take a while to break in. My friend has a new JEM7VWH, and it feels much stiffer than mine. When he picks up one of my old '88 JEMs, he says "wow, I love this neck". This is because it's soooo broken in... takes time!
Would it make sense to remove 1 of the 3 tremolo springs and readjust the trem system in order to achieve lighter string tension?
No. In my experience this can actually this can make the tremolo stiffer because the sTring tension remains constant, so you're putting more strain on the two sPrings. If anything, find 3 broken-in springs and replace the factory ones with those. New springs are often stiff until broken in for a few months. To speed the process there is a few easy ways:
- One way to stretch the tremolo springs is to block the trem on the neck side of the tremolo cavity (use wooden block, several coins or several thick plastic picks covered with foam or soft electrical tape, to protect the body) and tighten down the tremolo claw screws a few turns to stretch the springs manually for a day or so!!!!! Loosen them back up to play and tune the guitar again.
- Another easier way to stretch the trem strings is to remove one spring overnight. Just take it off the claw. You can slip it back on the next day and not change the bridge height and setup. Alternate between springs to stretch them all. In a week you can stretch each spring twice! Two springs working in place of 3 puts more demand on the ones being used and will stretch them MUCH quicker.
The Springs are a bit mysterious, because if you buy a dozen of them, some are stiffer and some are springier. You can sand or grind down the outer edge of the coils to decrease the springs elasticity (this is a physics thing not my invention!) but I have never needed to do this.
String Tension
Bending about the 20th fret is difficult especially when bending the high E, B and G strings. Is there anything that can be done to achieve a lighter string tension?
What gauge strings do you use? I use .009 to .042s that ship with the JEMs. Realistically it's tougher to get any less tension, given the 25.5' scale neck which is higher tension than a shorter scale. The only way to significantly reduce tension is to detune a half step or use thinner gauge strings. This will lower string tension dramatically but alter sound.
I have looked at the tremolo springs at the back of my JEM10 and there are 3 of them in an 'arrow' configuration (like the picture in the instruction leaflet). Is this correct as I have seen pictures of Ibanez guitars with all 3 springs in a straight line configuration.?
Correct parallel spring alignment | Alternate arrow alignment |
IMHO the parallel spring alignment is the usual and customary setup method. Start with the parallel setup and keep it that way unless you have good reason to change. This works the best from my experience and puts an even pull on each spring. On the tremolo claw, use the two outer claws and middle claw. Ironically Ibanez ships new JEM/UVs with the straight pull whereas their instruction booklet show the angled springs to add confusion. On the tremolo block use the two outer holes and middle hole.
One reason to use the alternate method would be to generate more spring pull, if your springs are worn or alternate gauge (thicker) strings are in use and you need more tremolo tension to get the guitar back in tune (correct floating/neutral position). This will prestretch the spring a bit, since the outer springs have a longer distance (from claw to block) and thus are pre-stretched and will require more tension to fully stretch (ie. dive the whammy bar).
Neck Back Sanding
Most JEM necks come glazed with a light coat of Tsung Oil from Ibanez. While this is not a plasticy as many other manufacturer's neck backsides, it is not smooth enough for me. Only the JEM10 ships with an unfinished neck.
The only and best way to permanently fix your JEM/UV neck is to sand off the glazed coating on the back of the neck. This can done with the neck attached to the body with masking, but is best done with the neck removed. Your call however I highly recommend this modification. Once sanded smooth you can occasionally clean the neck with 600 grade sandpaper and 0000 grade steel wool.
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