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Discussion Starter #1
How can I fix this and what is causing it?

I was told by Ibanez groups that the base needs to be tighter, yet when I removed the bar and try to tighten, it was already tightened, I didn't want to force it and mess something up, but it wasn't loose at all and it mainly seems to happen when I turn the bar the left

When I turn the bar to the right, it doesn't happen


@Rich
 

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Right, I had this on one of mine ages ago and you have to get inside the guitar. There's a nut right up at the top on the back of the "trem bar base" that holds it in place fixed to the actual base of the bridge. you need to get inside the trem cavity, possibly even pop the bridge out depending on that tools you have and then tighten that nut.

Simple :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Right, I had this on one of mine ages ago and you have to get inside the guitar. There's a nut right up at the top on the back of the "trem bar base" that holds it in place fixed to the actual base of the bridge. you need to get inside the trem cavity, possibly even pop the bridge out depending on that tools you have and then tighten that nut.

Simple :)
There has to be a way to tighten that without having to remove everything. I tried using tweezers but it didn't do anything. Why do they have to make everything complicated in these systems. So I have to remove everything just to tighten a washer?

Why don't they make a tool that can get in there to tighten it from the back

Also, what is that screw on top of it? What does it do and what happens if you tighten it?
 

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I'm sure everyone with an Edge/Lo Pro has had to tighten the arm socket at some point! Basically what Jono said. I've personally found it easiest to do this with the trem out.

This is what the arm socket looks like in isolation. You can see the hex nut (10mm, I think) which presses against the bottom of the baseplate, this is what loosens over time, leading to a spinning arm socket and clunking when using the bar. The small Philips head screw at the bottom holds the spring which locks the arm in, don't worry about that.


The slot on top is for a slot head screwdriver or tool to stop the socket from spinning as you tighten the hex nut with a wrench. That's it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is there a way to tighten this without removing the bridge? so basically I would need to remove the springs to remove the bridge?

what wrench # is needed?

I wish I could tighten this without having to remove the trem, as this may mess up my setup and would have to fine tune everything again

Is it ok put some locktite on the end of the thread so that thing doesn't loosen again?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If that little hook wasn't there, all you'd have to do is get a hollow 10mm socket and it would go straight into the nut
 

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Discussion Starter #8
could this work? lol the open side would clear that annoying hook, so the driver would go all the way in the nut, then you just twist by hand or a plier at the head

The problem is most nut drivers are recessed and not hollow enough like this. There is no way to put pliers in there and tweezers don't have enough grip.

How come in all these years nobody has come out with a way or a product to do this without having to remove everything. This is unacceptable on a 1k+ guitars. A hex nut should not come loose, it should come Loctited from the factory, it shouldn't have to be adjusted. I may end up revolutionizing the industry if I manage to find something to tighten this nut just from the back

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Why not just remove the trem? It takes 15 seconds.
If there is a smarter way, why not look for one? Also, I'm not an expert at setting up a guitar, it took me a lot of effort to set this guitar up like I wanted it. I'm afraid removing the trem and messing everything up
 

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If it's in tune and the nut's locked when you take out the springs everything will come back to where it was when you put the springs back in. I know Ibanezrules tech sections aren't your favorite but look here IBANEZ RULES!! tech - setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If it's in tune and the nut's locked when you take out the springs everything will come back to where it was when you put the springs back in. I know Ibanezrules tech sections aren't your favorite but look here IBANEZ RULES!! tech - setup.
thats not how it happened the first time i did this last years to lube up the knives

somehow the bridge ended up more forward than before i did it

i removed the springs
 

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could this work? lol the open side would clear that annoying hook, so the driver would go all the way in the nut, then you just twist by hand or a plier at the head

The problem is most nut drivers are recessed and not hollow enough like this. There is no way to put pliers in there and tweezers don't have enough grip.

How come in all these years nobody has come out with a way or a product to do this without having to remove everything. This is unacceptable on a 1k+ guitars. A hex nut should not come loose, it should come Loctited from the factory, it shouldn't have to be adjusted. I may end up revolutionizing the industry if I manage to find something to tighten this nut just from the back

If there is enough space in the trem cavity, you could use such a tool. The main point is getting enough torque so the nut is nice and tight, pliers may not be enough because they're not designed to snugly fit over a hex nut. If the spring retainer and its screw are in the way, you can easily remove them to do this and put them back when you're done.

Anyway, you bought your guitar used, right? So you can't expect it to be pristine in every respect. If you use the trem a decent amount, this part is under regular pressure, so after years of use, it's normal for things to be worked a bit loose. Just like it's routine maintenance to tighten things like the tuners, locking nut and so on. Parts move in relation to wood, metal and are under vibration when playing. Loctite might be ok, I'd probably try that if the nut was chronically coming loose rather than once in a blue moon.

Most Floyd type bridges have similar arrangements for mounting the arm socket.
 

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How come in all these years nobody has come out with a way or a product to do this without having to remove everything.
Because no one else minds removing the trem, heck some folks even enjoy working on their guitars with minor maintenance jobs like this! Everyone else takes this as part of the hobby of playing electric guitar. Whatdo you do if you break a string whilst playing? Do you need to start a thread for that too, lol?

This is unacceptable on a 1k+ guitars.
Is that before or after sales tax? What about a guitar that costs $999. Ooh what about a guitar that normally costs $1099, but you get it on sale at $999? Is it acceptable then?

LOL
 

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As an addendum, there is a key-like tool for the slot in the top of the arm holder to hold it while you're torquing the hex nut. It has an extended tang which provides further support. Bit safer to use something like this as slot head screwdrivers have tapered tips and the fit in the slot isn't perfect. Maybe Rich stocks this tool or knows where it can be got. Pic is the Red Bishop conversion kit.
 

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Is that before or after sales tax? What about a guitar that costs $999. Ooh what about a guitar that normally costs $1099, but you get it on sale at $999? Is it acceptable then?

LOL
You also have to consider if that is new or used pricing. Do you include shipping? And what about guitars that started as 799 or 899 but have risen in price to 1k+? Or what about a guitar that was originally 1k but dropped in price? Do you only count the one that actually sold for 1k+? A line must be drawn.

 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Problem solved, used 1/4 in. drive 10 mm 6-Point deep socket and cleared it easily and I was able to untighten, squeeze some Loctite in there and tighten it firmly. There is always a smarter way to do things, why would anyone remove the whole bridge just to tighten a nut is beyond me, is this how techs do it? I doubt it, maybe is a right of passage. Time is money for techs. Why waste time when a deep socket will fix this annoying issue?

I didn't even bother holding that slot and the issue is gone.

 

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I've run into alot of loose holders lately, which is why every one gets checked, by pulling the trem out and tightening it. And there's only one way to tighten it right so it doesn't loosen again, and that wasn't it..
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I've run into alot of loose holders lately, which is why every one gets checked, by pulling the trem out and tightening it. And there's only one way to tighten it right so it doesn't loosen again, and that wasn't it..
How come? is the same stuff, it was tightened and the issue went away, I felt resistance after tightening it and put Loctite, but of course, is not the Rich way, so must be wrong I guess :ROFLMAO:
 
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