Done a mod to this guitar, and it's about the zero point system. It's is said that the bar should be at the end of it's "groove" and at the same time touch the tremolo block. However if you adjust the spring tension to do so the trem might not be balanced anymore and just how much the bridge will be out of balance may vary from guitar to guitar (it should be balanced but I guess this is too hard to do in production).

So as you can see here;

my trem is balanced and I have set up the zps as it should;
this is how I did it.

Instead of getting the trem to touch the bar I've made the bar bigger in the middle so it will touch the trem when it's in balance, hope this make sense

You might not be able to see it in this next picture but this is with the original bar and there is a gap of 1 mm between the bar and the trem. (on a sidenote the gap between the bar and the block on my blue guitar is even bigger around 2 mm that's why I dont use the zps on that guitar but I could if made a bar that would fit.)

And here is some prototypes I've done

I hope someone finds this useful, must be more out there that don't use the stopbar because of this.

Cheers!

 

My 2550-CAB has got new pickups;

Evo2 and Evolution neck, the single coil is still stock Dimarzio/Ibz but with a changed cover. I really likethe Evo 2, sounds awesome and the clean sounds in split mode really chimes.

Isn't that a 2570mz cab? I think I have the same guitar - posted a NGD here: http://www.jemsite.com/forums/f16/ngd-prestige-rg2570mz-cab-129792.html

I like that cubed black pewter finish on the 2620... that is a cool collection of finishes! Also very interesting modification that you have done with the bar there...I've never noticed the gap that you referred to - now I'm going to go home and have a closer look at mine because I have 2 guitars with the EZ bridges.

 

Yes it's CAB, and the green one is MCR (Mediterranean Coral Reef). The cubed black finish has started to grow on me, I like how just the front is cubed and the rest of the body has just grey paint.

Regarding the bar, as I said earlier in the thread some guitars don't have gap and some will have. The easiest way to check it is when you have the trem leveled dive the trem and watch the block at the same time if;

the block moves a tiny bit before the bar starts to move you have a gap

the block and bar moves there's no gap

Then it's up to you how much it's bothering you.

Since I'v done this mod on my MCR the trem feels ultra solid, I don't get any flutter effect when I play hard or bend so it behaves more like fixed bridge this way. A fixed bridge that you can do dives on that is =)

I'll check out your thread!

 

Since I'v done this mod on my MCR the trem feels ultra solid, I don't get any flutter effect when I play hard or bend so it behaves more like fixed bridge this way. A fixed bridge that you can do dives on that is =)

I am very intrigued by the mod you've done...nice work! I've left the stopbar in both of my guitars with EZ bridges but no matter how much I turn the circular adjustment dial there is still a wee bit of instability if I do a wide bend, as the strings will go slightly flat...it seems good and stable when doing 1/2 step or full step bends so I'm definitely happy with how it performs but it sounds like you've made it even better. I don't have the tools or skill to make a bar like you have though... I am a little unclear on one part of your explanation when you say the bar should be at the end of its groove? perhaps you could expand on that a bit if you get a chance...

 

As you see in the pictures with the bar, there's a black plastic groove on each end of the bar shaped like a <, when the bar is at the end of that groove it should touch the trem block.

This way it prevents the block to flutter downwards because the bar is fixed against the groove with the outer springs.

however if the bar isn't at the end of the groove and bar touches the trem the bar becomes integrated with the trem and the outer springs acts just like the main springs.

you can check this by doing a pull-up with the trem... if the bar moves when you do a pull up it means it isn't at the end of the groove.


There's other way you can mod the bar.. I first started out with radial bearings that was 5mm in inner diameter and outer of 7.. was just to slide on but we have a metal lathe at work so that's why I decided to make a solid custom bar.

Hopes this helps/makes sense :smile: