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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, after waiting for 2 weeks, my guitars finally arrived. This post is about one of them. The Ibanez S 570AH. I worked on it for 4 hours today while I was watching movies. There were quite a few uneven frets, so I leveled and crowned the frets. They all were a little rough, and I sanded with sandpaper over my finger 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000grit sand paper. This was followed by Gorgamyte and a liberal amount of F-1 oil to the Rosewood.

Apparently, the 2019 and 2020 models of this guitar had Jatoba. It was changed to rosewood for 2021. It has Quantum pups, which actually sounded pretty good on this guitar, unlike the Quantum’s on one of the Jem Juniors that I have hanging on the wall. It also has an Edge Zero II bridge, which I had to replace the springs on so that it would return to pitch after doves and pull ups.

The saddle screws are really soft on this bridge. I stripped one while tightening it down using the Allen wrench during the intonation. Luckily it was set right where I wanted it when it happened. Of note, I was able to use the same intonation tool that works on the original Edge.

Unfortunately, after setting the fine tuners in the middle of their adjustment, there isn’t a lot of adjustment up or down on this mechanism. I had to set the strings a little flat as there is no retention bar for the strings coming out of the nut toward the tuning pegs, so the strings go sharp when you lock the nut down. Thankfully none of the notes at the first fret were sharp, so I didn’t have to remove any wood from under the nut.

I strung it up with Ernie Ball Cobalt 9-42 and didnt have to adjust the action at the posts. The action was just over 3/64 at the 17th fret on the high E side and just under 4/64 at the low E side. It plays pretty slick with no buzzing, now that it’s been set up. I paid $495.00 for it as it was discounted for having one small chip about as big around as a pencil lead where you plug in the cord.

I was really amazed to get an ash body on a guitar that was this inexpensive. Probably not swamp ash though. Perhaps Northern Ash? It is quite heavy. The tuning pegs were smooth turning as well, I’m pretty happy with it so far.
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Happy NGD, looks like an interesting guitar. A shame that the frets needed so much work, but at least you know what you're doing. Yeah, the saddle lcokdown screws on the Ibanez double locking bridges can be a little rubbish. I've had to replace them a few times, and ended up buying a bunch of stainless steel ones from a specialty fastener store. Now they hold up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Happy NGD, looks like an interesting guitar. A shame that the frets needed so much work, but at least you know what you're doing. Yeah, the saddle lcokdown screws on the Ibanez double locking bridges can be a little rubbish. I've had to replace them a few times, and ended up buying a bunch of stainless steel ones from a specialty fastener store. Now they hold up!
Yeah, where the Allen head goes into the top of the screw rounded out. I will have to cut a slot with a dremel in the top of it so I can put a screw driver in and turn it loose if I ever want to move it. Where is a good place to get the factory screws for the Edge Zero II?
 

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Well, after waiting for 2 weeks, my guitars finally arrived. This post is about one of them. The Ibanez S 570AH. I worked on it for 4 hours today while I was watching movies. There were quite a few uneven frets, so I leveled and crowned the frets. They all were a little rough, and I sanded with sandpaper over my finger 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000grit sand paper. This was followed by Gorgamyte and a liberal amount of F-1 oil to the Rosewood.

Apparently, the 2019 and 2020 models of this guitar had Jatoba. It was changed to rosewood for 2021. It has Quantum pups, which actually sounded pretty good on this guitar, unlike the Quantum’s on one of the Jem Juniors that I have hanging on the wall. It also has an Edge Zero II bridge, which I had to replace the springs on so that it would return to pitch after doves and pull ups.

The saddle screws are really soft on this bridge. I stripped one while tightening it down using the Allen wrench during the intonation. Luckily it was set right where I wanted it when it happened. Of note, I was able to use the same intonation tool that works on the original Edge.

Unfortunately, after setting the fine tuners in the middle of their adjustment, there isn’t a lot of adjustment up or down on this mechanism. I had to set the strings a little flat as there is no retention bar for the strings coming out of the nut toward the tuning pegs, so the strings go sharp when you lock the nut down. Thankfully none of the notes at the first fret were sharp, so I didn’t have to remove any wood from under the nut.

I strung it up with Ernie Ball Cobalt 9-42 and didnt have to adjust the action at the posts. The action was just over 3/64 at the 17th fret on the high E side and just under 4/64 at the low E side. It plays pretty slick with no buzzing, now that it’s been set up. I paid $495.00 for it as it was discounted for having one small chip about as big around as a pencil lead where you plug in the cord.

I was really amazed to get an ash body on a guitar that was this inexpensive. Probably not swamp ash though. Perhaps Northern Ash? It is quite heavy. The tuning pegs were smooth turning as well, I’m pretty happy with it so far. View attachment 17809
Nice work, and this is looking good! I've got the same bridge, will have to be careful if I need to adjust those bridge saddles. So far I haven't had to, either the original owner had taken care of it or the factory setup was good. Are you sure the strings actually go sharp when you tighten down the locking nut, or are you just assuming they would because there's no retainer bar? If you check out the angle on the nut you might find it's designed to be barless and the strings are sitting flush on top of it all the way to the back. That's what I've got on a couple of my Ibanez necks and it works great. No need for the bar, which I think is ugly and a nuisance to work around when restringing/cleaning, and the strings stay in tune when locking them down. It makes me wonder why all locking nuts weren't formed like that from the start.
 

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The reason for the retainer bar is that the Floyd Rose was first designed to be installed on Fender type guitars, which don't traditionally have a tilted headstock. The break angle of the strings over the nut towards the tuners is too shallow, hence the need for the retainer. angled headstocks have a better chance of not needing them, and Ibanez decided a while back to give it a go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nice work, and this is looking good! I've got the same bridge, will have to be careful if I need to adjust those bridge saddles. So far I haven't had to, either the original owner had taken care of it or the factory setup was good. Are you sure the strings actually go sharp when you tighten down the locking nut, or are you just assuming they would because there's no retainer bar? If you check out the angle on the nut you might find it's designed to be barless and the strings are sitting flush on top of it all the way to the back. That's what I've got on a couple of my Ibanez necks and it works great. No need for the bar, which I think is ugly and a nuisance to work around when restringing/cleaning, and the strings stay in tune when locking them down. It makes me wonder why all locking nuts weren't formed like that from the start.
Yeah the strings go slightly sharp once the blocks are tightened down at the nut. About 2 or 3 cents by the tuner. Could shim the nut to alleviate that problem, but it would likely make the first fret notes sharp due to the added height. I’m not gonna worry about it.

I had a Carvin bolt that was the same deal. Tilted headstock and no retainer bar. It was way worse though, you could see that the string wasn’t even contacting the area where the strings exited the nut going toward the tuners.

‘’My Jems are great. I don’t even have to touch the fine tuners after locking down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Next time I string it, I will put more wraps around the post, that should help the break angle at the nut.
 
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