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Painting question.

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painting
2K views 7 replies 2 participants last post by  spudler_t 
#1 ·
I'm throwing together a project, mainly for the practice of it and something to beat around on. Nothing special, it's an RG220 body I got off ebay. Anyway the paint is chipped all the way down to the wood in some spots. So it looks like I'm gonna need to take it back down to bare wood. I have a few questions about painting it. First off should I use paint stripper or sand the whole thing? It's got a thick layer under the paint which I'm guessing is the sanding sealer. My second question, what order should I reapply everything in? Right now it looks like it's primer then the sanding sealer is that correct or should I do sanding sealer first then primer? Thanks.
 
#2 ·
You would want to put the sealer on first as it is supposed to absorb a bit into the wood.
The way I did my 3 Body's was to sand the down to wood, Then I used Minwax Sealer, I am not sure the exact Brand of Primer I used off top of my head but it did have a Hardner which was awesome because it was dry and set in no time flat. Then I did some good sanding to create a perfectly flat surface( I was shocked as I assumed the Body's were semi flat but that was not the case. It have valleys and hills all over the body.) Then I sprayed 3 Coats of my Black Paint I used, and Finally after any Specific Graphics etc. etc. I used a special MotoStorm Nano Clear Extreme Scratch Resistant Clear and a bit of warning if you do not follow directions and be sure to wet sand and buff as it says to in like 3 days no longer the 5 days you will be in deep doo doo as this stuff sets to a darn near bullet proof coating and is almost impossible to sand or buff once cured or set for 6+ days.
I know this is about 10X more work then I imagine you care to do for what you explained I just thought id share in case you do another on e later on.
I will say though the MotoStorm Nano Clear if you sand and buff as instructed and then let it turn into Armor Plate lol, It has the Best Gloss and R.O.I I have seen in quite awhile not to mention you will really have to work at it to even put a minor scratch in the clearcoat.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the reply. I don't mind putting the work into it. I just wanted to make sure I did everything in the correct order. A good finish is all in the time you put into it with the prep work and sanding/buffing. I've seen people spray paint and even roller paint cars and have them come out looking nice with a good wet sanding and buffing. Anyway where would I get some of that motostorm clear coat and does it come in a spray can? How did you apply yours? Thanks again for the response.
 
#4 ·
Your Welcome, The MotoStorm NanoClear I bought on Ebay but they also have a Website, I don't believe they have it in a Spray can, on all 4 of the Bodies, No wait on 3 of the 4 bodies I used HVLP Guns a 1.7mm tipped one for the Primer and a 1.4mm one for the Super Jet Black Urethane and the Nanoclear.
The reason I used a 1.7mm for the prime is due to its thickness (plus it was the recommended size)I actually may have been able to use a Smaller Gun for the Basecoat and the clear and possibly had better results (not that it came out bad just had to do a bit more wet sanding to get the results I was shooting for)
It took me awhile but slowly I built up a decent system that allowed me to use the Spray Guns.
The Biggest thing I found that was keeping me from being able to use the sprayers and was killing my airtools unknown to me was the amount of water my compressor creates even with 2 filter systems on the line more then 10' from compressor one day using my Air sander and my auto oiler I started seeing white foam coming out the exhaust of my sander and die grinder (it was pitiful when I dissasembled them to clean the goo out).
I found using a Good Size Dessicant Air Dryer System along with the 2 filters one prior Dryer and one aft solved that Issue and if you buy a Extra Batch of Dessicant you can actually reuse it and just cycle them ( All you have to do is once it turns from Blue to a Pinkish is to bake it at approx 200 Degress for a few hours depending on how much water it has absorbed or how pink it is I swap mine when it just starts showing about 1/2 pink the bottom half turns first and it takes about 4 hours to dry they recommend 8 hours I suppose that must be for solid Pink)
That Item I believe cost me $30 from Harbor freight and the Dessicant was $5 I believe but it worked like magic no more Issues at all from moisture.
I will have to look up the Info on the MotoStorm Nanoclear and see if there is Something Similar that comes in a spray can.
Are you looking to do mostly Work With Aerosol cans? I can see what I have as far as info in that area if that would be easier or better for you.
Sorry about running on about the compressor/Water/Dessicant Issues but I thought if you were thinking of using Air you may not want to have to go through the Issues I did until I figured it out lol.
 
#5 ·
Alsacorp.com has some Items in Spray Can (Actually quite a bit of Stuff)
You should check out Paintyourownguitar.com I am still trying to find the info on MotoStorm Nanoclear I can't remember where I saved it as it was not with my rediculous amount of info I have aquired regarding Guitar Anything lol.
I cannot believe I cannot find any Info on the Nanoclear, I will go get the can Tomorrow and copy down the website and any other info I can for you sorry I don't have that right at the moment.
 
#7 ·
Yea reranch is a great site, LOL The website is believe it or not www.motostorm.com, BTW they have a boatload of other products on there.
I also made a video last night showing exactly how tough this finish is when done and cured, i had some extra in my gun and so instead of wasting it I Sprayed the Roof Rack things on my 2005 T&C Van as those take a beating if used and I havent yet sanded and buffed so I took a Course sanding Block thing and did a little sanding.
I myself was actually suprised at how little it effected the surface.
I just have to get the Video formated to be accepted by Youtube as it said it was to large even though it is maybe 3 min max. My Kodak Camera claims to be Youtube compatable but the Video's are all to big even 1 min ones.
 
#8 ·
Here is a link to there about page
http://www.motostorm.com/gpage111.html

The NANOclear Page
http://www.motostorm.com/gpage5.html
I bought a Quart and Did 3 Bodies one i had to sand back to wood because I screwed the pooch and tried to rush some things, I did 6 coats on 2 and 8 coats on one even though they list less in the instructions.
Just to give you an Idea of of coverage and I still have enough left I am sure to do 2 more bodies 3-4 coats on each
BTW I heard that a Big Name Guitar Manufacturer is now using this on there bodies (Although I tried about 8 times the guy I talked to woudl not disclose who was using it) But I think this item would of been something that will change the way guitars are finished who would not love to have a guitar that is darn near scratch proof under normal to hard useage? has no worried if you have Vinyl Guitar stands, nor has to worry about anything that may get on it you can spill glue on it and it will sand off before teh finish starts to scratch try any of the above with a Nitrocellulouse Finish and you can check it off as in need of major refinish job, especially the Vinyl it does nasty things to Nitro.
 
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