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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is apply poly that hard? And which is more recommended, poly or laquer? I tried spraying laquer (those spray cans) to a piece of wood about the same size of a guitar, but i almost finish the whole bottle but there isnt any really obvious laquer on it. Its not shiny at all, even if i buff it, its like nothing apply to it at all.
Whats the proper way of spraying laquer to a body? I had seen different way, such as laying yr guitar flat down and spray, or hang your guitar up and spray. which is the correct way?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
will this kind of "lacquer" works?



It reads 100% Pure Acrylic, Fast Drying, High Gloss - Premium Quality, Highly Durable - Interior & Exterior Quality - Ideal for Wood, Metals, Most Plastic, Automotive &Motorcycle Equipment, etc - Available in 9 Colors Selections Including Black. Silver. Clear Lacquer etc and Metallic. - Non-Fading, Non-Yellowing, Weather Resistant - No lead and Mercury - Product Info: 400 cc

Will it do a good job?

this time round im thinking of doing a black and white donnie hunt, using marker to draw those faces out? or what kind of stuff should i paint it with? will permanent marker do the job? after drawining, im thinking of apply 3 coats of laquer, and after tat sand it, and do a last coat of laquer again and buff it. 4 layers of coat, is this sufficent? and how much laquer is use in one coat? a thin coat? or?
 

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Real lacquer is about 20-25% solids so basically after you apply lacquer 75-80% of it evaporates. Generally speaking, anytime people do a lacquer finish it usually ends up as a relatively thin layer of lacquer. While there are benefits to lacquer over poly, by the time you get lacquer thick enough so that it can withstand a bump and not get dinged, you'd probably be better off with a couple of layers of poly coat, especially if you're spraying over an existing finish.

It's generally better to spray your guitar with it hung, but you could spray it flat on a surface but be prepared to do a lot more surface leveling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
is there any polyurethane spray cans? or can i get those cans type and apply using a brush and let it dry and sand and apply afwe more layers again?
 

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I used clear gloss poly to finish my lefty Carvin bass kit. It's a walnut body with maple neck and walnut headstock overlay. I did some thorough prep sanding, thinned the poly with mineral spirits to a wiping consistency and wiped it on with a cloth in thin coats (sanding lightly between each). After about 6 coats or so I sanded it back to the wood (this could have been avoided by using grain filler but I didn't want to use it and it may not be necessary depending what kind of wood you're working with). Then I wiped on about 7 or 8 coats, one a day, wet sanding lightly between each. I let it cure for about a week after the last coat then hand buffed it. It's nothing spectacular but I'm happy with how it turned out. It required more patience than skill, the desire to just get it done so I could play it had to be resisted.



 

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Was your test piece of wood sanded smooth? The wood has to be properly prepared first. Thats the most important part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Hobophobic said:
I used clear gloss poly to finish my lefty Carvin bass kit. It's a walnut body with maple neck and walnut headstock overlay. I did some thorough prep sanding, thinned the poly with mineral spirits to a wiping consistency and wiped it on with a cloth in thin coats (sanding lightly between each). After about 6 coats or so I sanded it back to the wood (this could have been avoided by using grain filler but I didn't want to use it and it may not be necessary depending what kind of wood you're working with). Then I wiped on about 7 or 8 coats, one a day, wet sanding lightly between each. I let it cure for about a week after the last coat then hand buffed it. It's nothing spectacular but I'm happy with how it turned out. It required more patience than skill, the desire to just get it done so I could play it had to be resisted.



woo thx! thats really a great info. anyway is what form is your poly clear gloss in? my is in liquid in those bottles (not those spray can), so i actually need to use brush. is your the same? i juz got 2 bottles today. Im actually trying to draw some stuff on my guitar (finished area) with a marker and coat it with. I took a piece of waste wood to pratice 1st, and i purposly pick the one with rought surface, i wanna see whether can i apply thick layer of poly, and after then sand it smooth and reapply a final layer of poly again. But i realise that using a brush, actually introduce air, there are kind of alot bubbles at the start, but now its about to dry up, it seems that the bubble have gone. Where can i get those spray can type of poly? Of we cant get them? Or must we can a spray gun or something like that? i got quite a bit of money to get some equiqment, is 200 dollars enough for airbrush? if not i can actually take out more, but might think twice even thought im pretty loose on cash now. I know with those money, I could easily get a finish done over shops but I really wish to learn myself and DIY myself.

btw can i actually pour poly in into spray gun and spray? i hope i wun do something stupid
 

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Jing said:
woo thx! thats really a great info. anyway is what form is your poly clear gloss in? my is in liquid in those bottles (not those spray can), so i actually need to use brush. is your the same? i juz got 2 bottles today. Im actually trying to draw some stuff on my guitar (finished area) with a marker and coat it with. I took a piece of waste wood to pratice 1st, and i purposly pick the one with rought surface, i wanna see whether can i apply thick layer of poly, and after then sand it smooth and reapply a final layer of poly again. But i realise that using a brush, actually introduce air, there are kind of alot bubbles at the start, but now its about to dry up, it seems that the bubble have gone. Where can i get those spray can type of poly? Of we cant get them? Or must we can a spray gun or something like that? i got quite a bit of money to get some equiqment, is 200 dollars enough for airbrush? if not i can actually take out more, but might think twice even thought im pretty loose on cash now. I know with those money, I could easily get a finish done over shops but I really wish to learn myself and DIY myself.

btw can i actually pour poly in into spray gun and spray? i hope i wun do something stupid
There is no cheap and easy way to clear coat a body using polyurethane. Yes it can be sprayed but only in a proper automotive style professional airbrush which also uses an air compressor. the air compressor can get upto $1000 USD in price, there is no cheap option here. Automotive grade airbrushes are also very expensive, not sure how expensive though. And last but definatly not least, polyurethane is EXTREMELY POISENOUS. which means to spray it you need a paint booth with extraction fans and filters. so the airbrush method isnt an option at all really. i think you can find normal spray cans but the health hazard issue would affect that somehow. also the spray cans give a CRAP HORRIBLE finish. if you have the money never use cans.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
woo didnt know polyurethane is extremely posionous. anyway i cant use a brush? oh man :( anyway i saw those spray gun, ranging from 30 to around 80, are they reliable? yes those are without those air compressor, but i rem that u can actually use those motor for fish tanks for that, lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
actually i saw a compresser with a airbush going on quite cheap, should i get that? it seems pretty good at around 180. and is polyurethane tat posionous? do i need to add in thinner? and how much ratio? 3:7? or if i get a spray gun, will laquer be a better choice?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
woo thats really cool, does brand of spray cans affect? i try spraying some on my waste wood and its in patches and patches. how far away did you guys spray away from the guitar? but again im using a 90 cents laquer :D :lol:
 

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I was probably shooting 10 to 15 inches from the guitar. I would stay away from super cheap stuff. I think I paid around $8.00 per can for the ones I used.
 
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