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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
RE: JS1 Rehab

The patient is in intensive care but vitals are stable.

* Butchered non-OEM wiring getting swapped to OEM spec (I threw up a little when I saw it)
* Replaced pickup mounting rings
* Updating control knobs to newer spec (OEM knobs won't work with new OEM pots)

I'll follow Rich's used guitar primer tomorrow and address the neck and buff and polish the body and assemble what I can until I get some new replacement screws for control/trem covers and pickup mounting rings.

Overall she's in great shape and will be more awesome when completed.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Re: JS1 Rehab - UPDATE

Separated the neck and body (Somebody has already been here before), polished the frets and cleaned and oiled the fretboard (She was thirsty).

Body got the first round of Maquire's hand rubbing compound - did a great job taking out pick marks.

There are some "character" dings, but nothing catastrophic - she will be a cosmetic player+++.

Neck and frets are in excellent condition and except for a little corrosion on the low E side of the trem base, everything is in very good order.

I ordered new screws for the trem/control cavaties and pickup mounting rings since some where stripped and in one case a machine screw was used instead of a wood screw. (DOH)

So one thing is for sure - you don't really know what you have until she's been fully undressed.

Rich's used guitar primer has been indispensible.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
RE: JS1 Rehab - Final UPDATE

After much research - JS1 is back!!!! She's looking, playing and sounding GREAT!!!

There are some contradictory factory PDF's out there (Note the CAP and B/W wires on the Tone Pot are positioned different than the 1200 diagram: https://d2emr0qhzqfj88.cloudfront.net/s3fs-public/diagrams/JS1000.pdf ), but this one did the trick for me: https://d2emr0qhzqfj88.cloudfront.net/s3fs-public/diagrams/JS1200.pdf

I was able to source all the parts from [email protected] (Note: Volume and Tone Pots are interchangeable - so the same part #)

Some learnings:

1. Bridge Red goes to swtich pole closest to the bridge, Neck Red goes to switch pole closest to the neck

2. Pre-build B/W jumpers to interconnect Pots using shrink insulation to keep it clean looking (See JS1200 diagram)

3. Tie B/W Pup pairs each to their own White wire using shrink insulation at the solder joint - much easier to solder one wire at the Pot

4. Tie Grounds to one Black Wire using shrink insulation at the solder joint - again, single wire to solder and easier for wire routing/management

5. Last but not least - this was pretty informative https://www.sweetwater.com/insync/7-killer-mods-push-pull-pot/ (For whatever reason, with the Pot down, I was tapped and pulled up I was full humbucker - so I def had something wrong, so once I A/B compared to my JS1000 [I resisted pulling the wiring apart for a full view, but it paid off] I was able to fully visualize it)

These were some pretty good tools/materials as well:

Pro Soldering Iron (I used '70' heat setting): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BRC2XU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Soldering Iron Kit (I really only needed the Multimeter to troubleshoot a ground): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L5FF75D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pickup Wire Kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017CNNPJK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Adjustable Toggle Switch Wrench: https://www.amazon.com/StewMac-Adju...=8-2&keywords=Adjustable+Toggle+Switch+Wrench

Steve
 
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