Refinishing question.

1095 Views 11 Replies 4 Participants Last post by gemm012, Aug 15, 2005

gemm012

Discussion Starter · Aug 13, 2005

I'm going to refinish my Rg570, but, I'm not sure how I should go about it. Alot of the original finish is intacted, and my dad is telling me that I should use that and not sand it down to the wood because the original finish will hold the the new finish better than anything. I thought that I should remove the finish and repaint it from bare wood. Also, the finishing material I plan to use are all nitrocellulose products and I think the original finish (It's an '89 RG570) may be polyurathane and may not work because of that. I need to know what to do and if you can tell me why that helps cause I always like to learn more. I'm really looking for facts. Thanks alot. I'll post pics when it's done, and maybe some of it in progress.
Galen

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frankfalbo

· #2 · Aug 13, 2005

The hardest part is filling the wood grain and making a completely flat surface for your color coat to go on. In your case, Ibanez has done that for you already. So sand the whole guitar uniformly with 320-400 grit sandpaper, and start your new finish. It will adhere just fine. Without that base on there, the wood is like a sponge. Use a sanding block for the top and back so you don't sand any dips in the Ibanez finish, and keep sanding until you don't see any glossy parts anymore.

This is no substitute for reading as much as you can about finishing. Go to projectguitar.com and read all you can about finishing first.

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Distantshore

· #3 · Aug 13, 2005

Speaking from an Auto refinishing standpoint your Dad is right, new paint adheres better to properly scuffed old paint. I however don't know much about Guitar refinishing.

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gemm012

Discussion Starter · #4 · Aug 13, 2005

Dammit! He's always right.

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ryanb

· #5 · Aug 14, 2005

This is the part where LGM would tell you to definitely NOT strip it all the way down. It is true that you should leave the factory finish there ... just scuff it up enough to make the new finish adhere. That is, as long as you are using a solid finish. If you were going to use a clear finish or if the original finish were somehow damaged are the only reasons you would need to go back to bare wood.

You won't have any trouble putting nitro (or practically anything else) over a urethane finish that has fully cured. What would be a problem (maybe) is putting something else over nitro.

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gemm012

Discussion Starter · #6 · Aug 14, 2005

The thing is, in some places the finish isn't there, i.e where I put the monkey grip/jem input jack. That's the only reason I wouldn't have immediatly agreed.

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ryanb

· #7 · Aug 15, 2005

Of course you CAN strip it all the way if that is what you want to do. It's just more work, because you have to do all of the filling, sealing work before applying your finish coats.

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gemm012

Discussion Starter · #8 · Aug 15, 2005

Well can I just finish the parts without the finish without sanding down the rest of the body? Also, what is a "properly scuffed finish."?
Galen.

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ryanb

· #9 · Aug 15, 2005

Probably yes. But patching a urethane finish would be harder than something like nitro. LGM probably knows better than anyone.

Scuff the finish (with like 400 grit) until you don't see any glossy spots anymore ... that's far enough.

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gemm012

Discussion Starter · #10 · Aug 15, 2005

http://photobucket.com/albums/b110/gemm012/?sc=1
So, I could just scuff up the finish and spray over it in maybe a couple of coats of a black poly urethane spray can and the places pictured like the grip and if I put in the older jem style neck joint, it will work well?

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ryanb

· #11 · Aug 15, 2005

Sure, why not? If it doesn't come out well, you can always sand it back again and try something else.

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gemm012

Discussion Starter · #12 · Aug 15, 2005

Thanks alot for all your help, I really appreciat it, I'll post more pics when it's done.
Galen.

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