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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Heyy, well, I'm new here, so first I'd just like to ask if I'm doing anything wrong like posting in the wrong place please let me knoww :) :lol:

So, I'm buying a new RG350dxz probably next week. I used to have a rg370dx but I sold it cause I HATED the colour :p lol anyways, I really did like the wizard II neck it had (i know some people hate them but I loved it) , and I see the new 350 has a wizard III not a wizard II. I was just wondering does anyone know the difference between these? and has anyone played a wizard III and if so whats it like? What I loved about the Wiz II was how flat it was, is the Wiz III still flat or not?

Thanks to anyone who has any info, much appreciated :) and sorry if I'm being a newb :p
 

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The wizard III is two mm wider at the neck pocket, some people say they can tell a big difference between the two but other than that I believe it's the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply man :) two mm aye? wouldn't have thought that would make much of a difference but sounds like it must do. Do you happen to know if the shape of the neck is any different?
 

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Wizard II (05-09)

Scale 648mm/25.5"
Nut 43mm
Heel 56mm
1st fret 19mm
12th fret 21mm
radius 400mmR

Wizard III (2011)

Scale 648mm/25.5"
Nut 43mm
Heel 58mm
1st fret 19mm
12th fret 21mm
radius 400mmR

hope that helps a bit dude
 

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No, the only difference is the 2 MM neck pocket, in fact if I remember correctly, they sold the Wizard III under the name of the Wizard II the first year it was out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Cool, thanks for all the info everyone! just ordered the rg350dxz, should get it in about 3 weeks, so I guess I'll find out for myself then :p just another question, off topic and I'm sure this has been discussed a million times but as we're here, what do you guys think of the edge zero II compared to the edge III? on the rg370dx I had, the knife edges wore down really quick and the thing just wouldn't stay in tune, is the edge zero II any different?
 

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yep
the ez 2 has locking studs, a screw in arm, and is more comfortable (for me at least). the screw in arm gets loose after you dive/pullup sharply, which is annoying, if you tighten it all the way. Also, if you want, you can remove the ZPS and flutter.
my point is, its a million times better :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
awesome :) So, (sorry for the newby-ness) what does the ZPS actually do? cause I've heard so many different things about what it does, so I'm not quite sure lol
 

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it basically stabilizes the bridge. it was really hard for me to use the bar for the first month, but in all fairness, it WAS my first floating bridge guitar, the springs werent yet "broken in"(not to mention first electric guitar :p). But once i removed it, it was light and easy to use. And MORE stable. AND, i could flutter. It's only REAL benefit(that i found) was that when i bended a string, the others detuned a wee bit less than normal. But the difference was negligible.
My point is, once u get the guitar, GET THE DAMN ZPS OFF!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
cool, thanks for the reply, very interesting. I've read a lot of things about the ZPS being pretty much pointless, but I can't help wonder there must be some sort of other benefit other than for bending strings, otherwise why would ibanez have put it in there? Also, with the ZPS system on does this mean you can't pull up? I read somewhere that with the ZPS on, it turns it basically into a fixed bridge, is this right or have i misunderstood?
 

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No, the Zero Point is where it bridge is in tune, i.e. the floating spot. What it does is when you dive or pull up and you let go it snaps back to the zero point. It will do this with out it but it just makes sure you get there. It just makes it more stable, most people remove it from the ZPS I and II and all the ZR's on the S guitars.
 
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