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So I’ve been wanting to change out some parts on my 2019 RG470 and I could use some advice for any retrofitting or replacing components.
RG470MB Mod Project
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Okay? You'll need to actually provide details of what you're interested in doing. 
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Here is one sugestion.
https://www.dimarzio.com/pickups/wiring-kits/paf-pro-green-meanie-hsh-split-coils
https://www.dimarzio.com/pickups/wiring-kits/paf-pro-green-meanie-hsh-split-coils
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9 Posts
I’d like to upgrade the Edge trem to an actual Floyd Rose, some chrome hardware, and a new bridge pickup. I was thinking a Pariah Pasadena series black, or a Seymour Duncan ‘78 model or Frankenstein.
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My biggest concern I guess would be which Floyd would fit properly in the stock routing.
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I guess my biggest concern would be the Floyd, and which one would fit with which locking nut, and matching the radiuses.
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Pickups will be fine. F or trem spaced will aesthetically line up the pole pieces with the strings, but standard spacing will still work. The Frankenstein is regular spaced, but you can get it as the IM1 from Seymour Duncan's Custom Shop. They'll do Trem spaced if you ask. Both are awesome sounding pickups. Had both, and still retain my Custom Shop IM1 with a couple little tweaks.
Gotoh Floyd Rose is probably the best bang for buck licenced Floyd Rose, with improvements over the OFR. I'm guessing that it should replace the STD-DL that's on your RG. You may need to do a little sanding routing to fit. Someone else may be able to confirm.
Gotoh Floyd Rose is probably the best bang for buck licenced Floyd Rose, with improvements over the OFR. I'm guessing that it should replace the STD-DL that's on your RG. You may need to do a little sanding routing to fit. Someone else may be able to confirm.
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Will the Gotoh locking nut replace the original Ibanez? I’ve heard some guys say that it’s good to leave the stock nut but I’m not too sure.
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If you intend to replace the nut, you need to have the correct radius, width and mounting specs. That particular RG470 has a Wizard neck that's been on the mid level guitars for some time, so 43mm wide at the nut and a 15"/16" fingerboard radius. The Gotoh GHL nut fits this spec. The current version of the guitar has a top mounted nut, don't know whether that was the case a few years ago. Either way, you can get a rear or top mounted variant from Gotoh.
On the other hand, if the stock nut works as it should, probably don't need to change it.
Another thing to consider if you plan to get a Gotoh Floyd is that some modification may be required to use the Gotoh inserts/studs. The Lo-TRS type inserts are hollow, while Gotoh ones are solid because the studs have the locking set screw in them, and the dimensions are, I think, different, so some drilling may be required. With an Original Floyd, this is is necessary to use the replacement inserts/studs. On the other hand, you can keep the stock TRS inserts/studs, see here: https://www.jemsite.com/forums/f21/gotoh-rf-50577.html.
Of course, make sure that the block length is appropriate too.
On the other hand, if the stock nut works as it should, probably don't need to change it.
Another thing to consider if you plan to get a Gotoh Floyd is that some modification may be required to use the Gotoh inserts/studs. The Lo-TRS type inserts are hollow, while Gotoh ones are solid because the studs have the locking set screw in them, and the dimensions are, I think, different, so some drilling may be required. With an Original Floyd, this is is necessary to use the replacement inserts/studs. On the other hand, you can keep the stock TRS inserts/studs, see here: https://www.jemsite.com/forums/f21/gotoh-rf-50577.html.
Of course, make sure that the block length is appropriate too.
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I have ordered several chrome components from Warmoth and Allparts. The chrome nut blocks have arrived and are installed. Still waiting on everything else. Still need to order the Gotoh Floyd Rose. Any suggestions on where to get them cheap?
https://www.philadelphialuthiertool...sed-floyd-rose-locking-tremolo-bridge-chrome/
chrome one pretty on sale here.
chrome one pretty on sale here.
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Hey guys so I got a Dimarzio pickup in and I can’t find a wiring diagram for this model guitar. Wondering if anybody can help me out?
Easiest way to do this, is just snip the wire on the existing pickup and just wire the leads together, takes about 2 minutes; and you dont need a wiring diagram.
I actually promised a friend to make a good wiring diagram for him, gimme a little bit and I'll post it for you; it'll make sense!
I actually promised a friend to make a good wiring diagram for him, gimme a little bit and I'll post it for you; it'll make sense!
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Okay thank you!
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That wiring diagram would be greatly appreciated right now... I believe that since my guitar was a customer return, somebody during the process changed the wiring and it’s all the wrong colors for a normal Ibanez.
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DiMarzio provide wiring diagrams with their pickups, as well as their website. All that information is widely available with a simple search online.
In short, Red wire goes to the pickup selector where the old pickups wire was, join and tape off the black and white ones, green and bare to ground (probably the back of the pot).
In short, Red wire goes to the pickup selector where the old pickups wire was, join and tape off the black and white ones, green and bare to ground (probably the back of the pot).
Oh, i posted it ages ago lol
https://www.jemsite.com/forums/f35/*nearly*-universal-ibanez-wiring-diagram-167243.html
you should be able to follow it, if you cant; or something doesnt make sense, we can go over it with some pictures.
No dude... This is only done for 3 way switches; where theres no push pull pots (basically no ibanez models, I genuinely cant think of a single one). On 5 way switches (basically every ibanez model); on H/H guitars the neck is wired for series in pos 5, and parallel in pos 4; then both pickups with split coils in pos 3, then split coil alone for bridge pos 2, and then pos 1 is full humbucker. In H/S/H the neck and bridge pickups are split and combined with the single mid in pos 2 and 4. H/S/S is basically identical to H/S/H. If you're taping up the white and black wires, you get zero options of splitting or parallel wiring.
"All that information" is largely meaningless if youre not even sure what youre looking at to start with.
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Yeah, sorry I forgot, the white and black joined go to the other spot on the switch. But again, as I mentioned, the OP can find this stuff easily on the DiMarzio website anyway.
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