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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi!

I'm new to the forums. Hopefully I'm excused if it has been asked before, but I searched to find a topic about similar problem but couldn't find it.

Have a 2002 RG570 with an original Edge tremolo. Ernie Ball heavy bottom set gauge 10-52, tuned to D standard. Followed Ibanezrules' tech advice. Set the neck relief about 0.25 mm/0.01" at the 8th fret, string action at the 24th fret low E is 2 mm and at high E it's 1.5 mm, but at the 12th fret it's about 2.35 mm low E and 1.75 mm high E. Wounded strings buzz from 12th-24th fret, but not more than I can live with, worst is the E string of course.

Should I tighten the truss rod to get less relief or does it need a neck shim?

Many many thanks in advance. Regards.
 

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I've never used the 12th to measure action but sight the neck and set relief so the action is either even until the neck starts to bow, or decreasing, but never set by eye so that the action is ever increasing at any point from the last fret. Sighting the neck you can easily see what the fret line is doing right beside the straight edge of the string.

Otherwise buzz is a factor of physics, as long as it's even and not relieved at any single point where a high fret is causing the ones below to buzz. otherwise look at the ellipse of the string when plucked, it will be greater then your action at the points it's buzzing. Now barely pluck the string, less amplitude, no buzz. And your direction of pluck sets the primary path of the string vibration so picking perfectly parallel to the fret creates less buzz than picking down or deep toward the fret. At least to my ears which are long shot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK, thanks a lot. So from what I read of your post (I'm not a native speaker of English) the action ought not increase from 24th to 12th fret when I look down the neck (which it does), it's like it's bowing from 24th to 12th fret. Seems like I have an Ibanez with a special neck profile as turns on the truss rod don't alter the relief much at 8th fret...? Feels like the truss rod is almost as lose as it can be and the relief cannot reach 0.30 mm.
 

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I can't say if you have an S shape neck either from scarf joint shrinkage or luck [bad piece of wood], but you're higher at the 12th, you want to tighten the nut, not loosen it.
 

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Woof! You want to tighten it not loosen I think. I would have tightened the rod a *little* then let it sit for a day and reevaluate. I think wood only needs a few hours to resettle but I like to leave it for a while - and go play something else. :D
I might be wrong but I wouldn't loosen and tighten the rod a lot (many times) over a short period, especially on an older guitar.
(2002 is old? Sheesh!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanx a ton. Helped to tighten the truss rod, the U-bow disappeared. Now it seems that the neck bows forward from 1st to 8th fret and more straight from there and up to the 24th. Will await my 3 $ feeler gauges from China before I tweek more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Woof! You want to tighten it not loosen I think. I would have tightened the rod a *little* then let it sit for a day and reevaluate. I think wood only needs a few hours to resettle but I like to leave it for a while - and go play something else. :D
I might be wrong but I wouldn't loosen and tighten the rod a lot (many times) over a short period, especially on an older guitar.
(2002 is old? Sheesh!)
2002 was the last "real" RG 5xx year, wasn't it? :smile_big: I also have a 2000 RG 570 but hate the neck. The frets are smaller/thinner and the high E-string tends to slide down from the fret edges, especially when I pull-off. Planning to sell it.
 

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You do not have to wait a day, an hour, or even a minute after adjusting your truss rod. If it creeps one way or the other at any time after adjusting it to taste, then tweak it as needed.
 

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You do not have to wait a day, an hour, or even a minute after adjusting your truss rod. If it creeps one way or the other at any time after adjusting it to taste, then tweak it as needed.
Yes, exactly this^^^ Some of the best guitar builders today scoff at the notion of being overly cautious with adjusting the truss rod, within reason of course. No need to wait after adjustment.

It's possible you have a double-action truss rod in that guitar, and as such, that means if you adjust a bit too far you can indeed reverse the bow into a back bow. Put a capo on the first fret and use your finger to fret the 1st string at the very last fret. Pluck the string and check for clearance on the 7-9th frets, and check for the string being choked (bad) or for maximum sustain (best). Repeat on the 6th string.

Proper neck adjustments on a precision neck might take a few turns each way to find the sweet spot. I know I have found the sweet spot when the note sustains the longest.
 

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I'm thinking that you might have an issue with unseated frets here. Capo the guitar at the 12th fret and raise the bridge at least far enough so there is clearance under all the strings. The neck should be virtually straight in that section regardless of where you have the truss rod set. You should see the action smoothly increase as you move towards the bridge in this scenario.
 
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