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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
He did that trick of putting the strings on the side. I'd rather do this than removing the bridge, but you need to put something to make the bridge forward.

He is using the Stewmac fret end file, but the only difference from Rich method, is that he is using the Stewmac touchup stick. This stick has

Black: 2400 grit
White: 4000 grit
Grey: 12000 grit

Rich told me that all you need is 600 grit sandpaper. Is this stick worthless? His result at the end looks decent. This stick is only 3 bucks but with their bull**** shipping is more expensive.


 

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Ha. the guy that blew NAMM 2014? by doing a Youtube video of the whole PDF dealer catalog. Arizona IIRC?

If you're happy is all that matters but I'd never work that way, why even ask, you know I don't. But I don't work the way most of these guys do. FAR easier [and less work IMO] pulling the bridge and the neck and take the body out of the equation. Do the ends 18-24 on the bass side, yea right. Not like you'll ever feel them but the job isn't done without them. No detuning, no returning, no setup, everything is still in tune when reassembled. Then he takes care of fret sprout using the dressing file with tape over the edges? You do that with a fret file, the whole side at one time, shave it until there is no sprout left, before you ever start rounding the ends. If it's on one it's on all. And then I never do 1 at a time, same pressure same stroke down one side then back up the other. And he never does the real finish which is the fret against the board which you have to turn the file over and use the unfinished edge. carefully of course. And masking 1 fret at a time, that's why they make 3/4", 1/2". and 1/4" tape, and he's got to mask it cause he's using those sticks. There are plenty of different ways to work, that's not mine. Micro mesh 4 then 12, why. 12 isn't taking out the scratches from 4 and 2400 isn't taking out file marks. Why I use a 300 grit diamond crowning file around the ends to take the file marks out, then 1500, 1800, and 2400. Run 6000 over the tops. This is if I'm just doing the ends, I'm not looking for highly polished ends as the sides are covered in yellow clear. Just looking for comfort. if it's a silver package I'm sanding all the clearcoat off the frets. Nothing like shining fret tops with clearcoat all over the rest of the frets. Then I'm looking to polish everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Ha. the guy that blew NAMM 2014? by doing a Youtube video of the whole PDF dealer catalog. Arizona IIRC?

If you're happy is all that matters but I'd never work that way, why even ask, you know I don't. But I don't work the way most of these guys do. FAR easier [and less work IMO] pulling the bridge and the neck and take the body out of the equation. Do the ends 18-24 on the bass side, yea right. Not like you'll ever feel them but the job isn't done without them. No detuning, no returning, no setup, everything is still in tune when reassembled. Then he takes care of fret sprout using the dressing file with tape over the edges? You do that with a fret file, the whole side at one time, shave it until there is no sprout left, before you ever start rounding the ends. If it's on one it's on all. And then I never do 1 at a time, same pressure same stroke down one side then back up the other. And he never does the real finish which is the fret against the board which you have to turn the file over and use the unfinished edge. carefully of course. And masking 1 fret at a time, that's why they make 3/4", 1/2". and 1/4" tape, and he's got to mask it cause he's using those sticks. There are plenty of different ways to work, that's not mine. Micro mesh 4 then 12, why. 12 isn't taking out the scratches from 4 and 2400 isn't taking out file marks. Why I use a 300 grit diamond crowning file around the ends to take the file marks out, then 1500, 1800, and 2400. Run 6000 over the tops. This is if I'm just doing the ends, I'm not looking for highly polished ends as the sides are covered in yellow clear. Just looking for comfort. if it's a silver package I'm sanding all the clearcoat off the frets. Nothing like shining fret tops with clearcoat all over the rest of the frets. Then I'm looking to polish everything.
You mean using a fret block. What the fret blocks

I know you're the only one who does it the way you do, but this way is for noobs who just want a more comfortable feel I guess. It's not perfect, but does Ibanez get it perfect from the factory? Probably not.

How do they even do it these fret dressing on maple guitars with a finish? I doubt is with a machine, so they have to do it by hand. Time is money, doubt they're gonna sit down doing all your steps on thousands of guitars.

So basically, if I detune the strings and move them out of the way like in the video, my setup would go out the window?

He does it differently here, using a fret block

 

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Yes, that's a fret file.

If you can't do that in a hurry you're not a tech. Just remember those files are for stainless and they melt nickel quick, so of course you can work fast. You can just take the edge off fast or you can do full ball ends fast. Stainless not so fast.

Factory Prestige/Genesis maple gets zero. Signature maple they get the same as rosewood, they run in against a sanding belt in a figure 8 pattern. Doesn't do squat on stainless. The stainless they do half decent I'm not sure how they do but probably a combination of a little file and then the belt because they never get the corners where the fret meets wood.. All Premium and JC are all filed by hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
[/QUOTE]
Yes, that's a fret file.

If you can't do that in a hurry you're not a tech. Just remember those files are for stainless and they melt nickel quick, so of course you can work fast. You can just take the edge off fast or you can do full ball ends fast. Stainless not so fast.

Factory Prestige/Genesis maple gets zero. Signature maple they get the same as rosewood, they run in against a sanding belt in a figure 8 pattern. Doesn't do squat on stainless. The stainless they do half decent I'm not sure how they do but probably a combination of a little file and then the belt because they never get the corners where the fret meets wood.. All Premium and JC are all filed by hand.
I don't understand their logic. So, none of the maple Prestiges gets fret end treatment from the factory, except the signature models like the Jem 30th anniversary, for example.

How come the Premiums which are cheaper and made in Indonesia get this fret end treatment, but the maple Prestiges, which are more expensive and MIJ do not?

So, for example, the Jem77P Floral is a maple fretboard, does this guitar also get the treatment? I guess so since is a signature? I suppose since they're using cheaper labor from Indonesia, cheaper parts, cheaper everything, in the floral they don't even give you an original edge, then they can afford to do the fret ends especially since is a signature.

So what's the point of a maple Prestige then. The Genesis is pretty much the same except for the pickups and the titanium trussrod. Do all Prestiges have titanium trussrods? The case is irrelevant.

The prestige come in nicer finishes, birdeyes maple, luminlay eye dots, etc. All this stuff is irrelevant when it comes to playability and costs Ibanez nothing to add.

The weird part is that all the maple prestiges are advertised to have the fret end treatment on some websites. I was looking at all the prestige models on their site and they no longer put the "fret end treatment" under all the features even for non maple ones.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The most ironic part is the Genesis DX gets the treatment simply because is not maple, but like you said, this probably just done with their sanding belt.

So, even if I follow that youtube guy way of dressing the ends, which is not as good as your way of doing, could still probably get the fret ends to feel just as good as they come from factory in the Genesis DX
 

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They no longer put it on the pages because I've been telling the world it doesn't exist. I'm been on their asses since they dropped it. Their excuse is process, to which I told them change it back. Nobody listens.

I just use a diamond crowning file on Prestige, they don't need a file except to do the edge against the wood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
They no longer put it on the pages because I've been telling the world it doesn't exist. I'm been on their asses since they dropped it. Their excuse is process, to which I told them change it back. Nobody listens.

I just use a diamond crowning file on Prestige, they don't need a file except to do the edge against the wood.
A lot of people in Ibanez groups are dissatisfied with the recent quality. The Gotoh tuners are all ugly, not Ibanez's fault, but they should be on top of this, demand Gotoh to step up their game.

I bought my new RG565 and inside the cavity, the paint is all bubbled up. It looks ugly. My RG550 has some but not as bad as this one.

I still don't understand how a line such as Premium which is supposed to be a step lower than Prestiges and Signatures, get hand treatment. All I can think of is since they send labor to Indonesia, this reduces the cost and can afford to add this hand treatment, whereas, having Japanese workers do this on Prestiges and Signatures would cost a lot more to be justified. It's only justified on the J customs which are way more expensive.
 

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Tuners? Seriously?

What's inside a cavity nobody should care about. The only thing I care about are problems on the edge of the truss rout or under the cover.

The whole basis of Premium was JC "quality" and finishing at half the price. They may be getting better at the ends but it's still Indo quality wood right out of the regular production piles and until they move to JC quality wood [dried] they'll never get close.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Tuners? Seriously?

What's inside a cavity nobody should care about. The only thing I care about are problems on the edge of the truss rout or under the cover.

The whole basis of Premium was JC "quality" and finishing at half the price. They may be getting better at the ends but it's still Indo quality wood right out of the regular production piles and until they move to JC quality wood [dried] they'll never get close.
I got quoted $60 by a tech for the fret end dressing, that's like $120 for both of my guitars. I asked him what they do and says they tape off the fretboard and are careful with any guitar with a finish, use a safety file for the more intricate places

I paid $26 for the Stewmac fret end dressing file. I just need some sandpaper and I'll do it myself and probably get as good a result as the tech and save $100. I'm tired of paying these techs to do stuff unless is something completely out of my hands like changing pickups which I have no idea how to do.
 
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