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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wondering if the hardware (screws) that mount the neck to the body of a tilt joint heel RG are different to the ones for the square heel models eg. Pre AANJ RG470.

I'm pretty sure the location of the holes are the same but are the screws different lengths and the heads angled according to the tilt?

Hope this makes sense. Reason I ask is i have a 92 RG470 with a superb neck and am considering a nicer body like an earlier generation Jem or simar vintage RG550+ to attach the neck to.
 

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I believe that the treble side screws are shorter, if you use the same length screws on a tilt heel, they’ll come through the fretboard.

I’ve never actually tried the swap you’re about to try, so I don’t know for sure, but take care in case I’m right!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Great info. Just one final question. Apart from the mixed length screws, is there anything else required like special washers, ferrules, neck plate or spacers to ensure the screws go straight up or is the heel tilt angle a non issue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I bought a sweet old RG570 body to replace the emerald green body on my beloved RG470. I also ordered black knobs and pickup rings to give it the full Wesley Snipes treatment. All I need now is those shorter AANJ mounting screws mentioned earlier in the thread and jack cavity cover and I'm in business. Wouldn't mind an Ibanez machined neck plate if I can find one.
 

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Necro thread bump, Im sorry

I did search the web for an answer but it spat me out here, surprise surprise....

So today i mounted my fancy neck plate on my 540P for the first time and i inserted the neck screws to hold it in place to take a quick photo, i noticed (as @Rich correctly points out above) the screws on the treble side of the body barely make it through to the other side.

The bass side has a total of 12mm of metal available whereas the treble side has roughly 6.5 - 7mm. To put this in perspective, the taper on the end of the screws accounts for roughly 4mm of length. These screws are 100% seated, no more material left to come through

So basically, once you take the taper of the screw in to account, the treble side is held on with about 3mm of metal per screw, which is kinda outrageous in my opinion.

Im assuming it would be ok to spec longer screws for the treble side to match the 12mm available on the bass side but i would like someone knowledgeable to confirm if possible? Total screw length on the treble side would need to increase in length by 6mm to match the 12mm on the bass side.

Also @Rich do you know if Ibanez still spec screws this length with the modern tilt joints?

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Right so i measured the depths of the holes drilled in to my Wizard neck and all four of them come out as 17mm in depth (roughly)

That leaves 8mm (roughly) of un-drilled material before you blast a hole in to the face of the fret board.

I think ive kinda answered my own question here but any replies would still be appreciated (y)

Bass side screws can be 45mm max, treble side screws can be 40mm max from what ive measured.

(Edited because i exist on the left side of the bell curve sometimes)
 
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