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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

So I decided to keep my strat ( the one with the scalloped board that most people from jemsite didn't like..etc) Because I actually really like it.
Yesterday I decided I wanted to sand it down to bare wood (now this was my second option, my first was to respray to vintage white, Blue, Green or Purple) So I started sanding with just using my hands and sand paper and it was so far so good, but it did take quite a while.

2 hours later my brother tells me we have a Sander...........-.-
Went looking for it, found it and started using it :)

Now this is how i start - 1st with 60 grit so the body looks..i dont know? scratched? Maybe i should have done more research but a site told me something along the lines of 60 grit, 100 grit and then 150 grit.

But it did not mention the stages ? But anyway, I decided (to be safe) i use the 150 grit when i started seeing the wood.

This is what I've got at the moment, Oh and can I respray it as it is now? except for the sides, i will sand them down more before I spray ( if i can ) Sanding down took very long due to cheap sandpaper... but with no money to actually use anymore (due to buying tuners, Thanks cale :) ) Its all i've got to use :)

Sorry for the long essay >_<









As you see the wood is **** -.-
Anyone know what type of wood it is?
 

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As long as it's smooth you can spray it now if you're using colour coats and it will look OK. I got tired of sanding mine down and sprayed black over everything and it looks pretty good. Not deep-glossy-wet, but matte and acceptable. I think you're going through a thick sealer coat that is really hard. If you want to accelerate the process switch to a heat gun and scraper:) If you're going solid colour I don't see the point in removing all the original paint and sealer. Good luck.

When we did our strat it was a 3 piece block of alder. It's hard to say what yours is, because there are those odd lines on the forearm contour. My experience has led me to believe that even the cheapest guitars are not made from plywood because hardwoods don't 'ply' very well. They use multiple slabs glued together to make the blank before routing. My squire strat was spec'd as alder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ahh great then :D i can start spraying this saturday!

Also, the wood is fairly light and it looks as though there was glue stuck on... hmm
Don't matter :) I wasn't expecting Mahogany or Alder haha this is good enough for a first time to try it on :)

Cheers guys! will keep you updated!
 

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Nooooooo! Once you get it to the wood, and make sure you smoothed it out with a higher grit (220)--you'll need to reseal the wood. If you don't' the paint will seep into the grain. You'll never get an even finish, and it will look like crap! Before starting any project like this, it's beneficial to do your homework first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Cheers for the heads up AlaskaBat :)

What is Grain sealer? i haven't really heard of it.

Is it a good idea to completely sand down the back then? or keep it as it is? and same for the sides, they're barely sanded down.

AlaskaBat I would really appreciate if you'd help me with this :) especially preparing the body because i might get a car spraying garage to spray the guitar :)

By the way i used the 150grit with a sander and its extremely smooth, will that do or should i go for the 220 grit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I've given it to a professional and he told me he'll need to use a sealant, filler, sand down to a smooth finish, basically everything you said :p
and for the price he's spraying it for me, I couldn't say no >.< oh btw
its going to be Creamy yellow/vintage white (yngwie malmsteen type colour)
 

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looks like your professional really knew what he/she was doing! Looks nice.

I'm really really tempted to scallop my spare rg neck just to see what it's like. I hear that most people who try a scallop don't usually go back if they like anything bendy/speedy/vibratoy. Can you comment on liking the scallop. I have wrist problems, and have heard a lot about how a scallop can reduce hand fatigue because you need a lighter touch. That sounds great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It really does make a difference. Think of it as flying over a fretboard :p you barely have to fret to achieve the note.

When i had the Strat strung up, i barely played my RG due to the things i could do on a scalloped fretboard that i couldn't do on my RG :D bending was easier, vibrato and even sweeps :| which was a surprise to me :O

If your going to scallop your board, please, Take Your Time! reach to perfection. Mine was done as a test/project but it still came out pretty cool :) next i'd like to keep the inlays.

The professional has sprayed a guitar first time in his life but he seemed to be in the painting/spraying business for around 20 years. He actually works in a garage spraying CARS :)

I may actually get another Strat copy but with rosewood board, scallop it and get it sprayed, possibly sell it :) cos i love maple necks!
 
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