Ibanez JEM Forum banner
1 - 20 of 54 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
A few years ago this guitar was a parts project that I wound up putting together. This forum is where I searched for any answers I needed. Well here I go again with a repaint! I messed up the front pretty bad one day... Slammed the face of the guitar into the headstock of a neck I had in my hand for another project (I was wearing the guitar and... Was in a rush and when I removed it from my shoulders that is when the mishap happened).

Any way, when Ad_Astra repainted his js1 that awesome bright green I knew it was just a matter of time before I had to repaint this thing. He put the bug in me! Here's some pics of what it was... And will be
17613


Here's the repaired damage, it chipped right down to the primer, it's a lacquer finish so I was able to melt in a repair. Which just isn't good enough for me.
17614


This is what I am going to paint it
17615


I have all the paints in... The body has been stripped and cleaned... And sanded with an air sander... And by hand
17616

17617


I decided not to completely remove the original finish because the time it would take would be obnoxious... It's ready for primer! But here in the state of Maryland it's been over 75% humidity for the past week and a half with no end in sight. So I am prisoner to the waiting game.

I'll keep posting as the project progresses. I will be installing a new set of pickups as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
676 Posts
Sweet, can't beat a good flip-flop scheme. I feel like a heat gun may be the only way to get off the stock concrete poly without losing one's mind.

I'll say it again - there needs to be a Genesis Radius.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have a heat gun... And I thought about it, I am worried about gouging the wood since it is such a curvy body. I have never used a heat gun to remove a poly finish... Does it get very brittle and simply scrape away? If so I might just do it! I have a black 540r as well and I can physically see the difference in thickness due to how much paint is on this red one. Those candy finishes are super thick!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
676 Posts
The heat gun softens poly so when you get it off, it basically delaminates in pieces. I guess once you get on a roll, you can use your scraper of choice effectively as a wedge and lever it away from the body as it softens. Because the R is so curvy, a rounded tool would be ideal.

The trick is to go slow and careful so you don't leave burn marks (unless you're going for a BSB vibe!) or gouges, but it's still faster than sanding, and most chemical strippers don't affect poly much.

Yes, some of them are quite thick, a MIK RG I had was easily 1mm; stuff was like concrete, and you'd really have to try to put a dent in it :LOL:, which, for a softer basswood body is not necessarily bad. Expect some weight loss too after removing it all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The weight loss is a huge plus, my js100 parts guitar is 2 lbs lighter than this. Hell when it was together it weighed just as much as my Les Paul... To me that is just nuts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
As for burn marks... Why does that matter so much when I will be painting over it? I mean, not charred, just browned. I am fine with it if I can paint over it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
676 Posts
That is a heavy JS 🤔. Happens sometimes - my PL has some heft, most of which is due to the trem, tuners and electronics. The neck and body stripped down are very light indeed (gotta love old, dried out wood). The paint isn't too thick either - the colour coat is a slightly sparkly, peachy gold, topped with a tinted clear to give it the GP hue.

No biggie about burn marks if it's a solid colour, some people are oc about that stuff. I probably would be too 😄.

What will the new pups be?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I have an air classic going in the bridge and a set of true velvets going in the middle and neck positions. I want a classic sounding guitar... Something that cleans up with sparkling cleans. My thoughts were... I can always add gain since I have a high gain amp. I had hotter pickups in it, but they were just pushing the preamp too far to get the clean tones that I wanted.

As for the poly removal, I really am considering it now... There's a small part of me that is worried about certain spots that won't want to come off. Like around the horns, or where the paint gets into the bridge cavity.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
676 Posts
That'll be a good combo. If I were building up another HSS, something like that would be the way to go.

I haven't stripped an old Ibanez but if the paint was evenly applied across the whole instrument, it shouldn't be a problem?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,350 Posts
Ugh!! Your last picture gave me the chills! Back in the early 90's I decided to sand down my old glossy white RG110 to "make it better". I had a thing about classy wood grain finished guitars back then... Instantly regretted it when I realized how hard and thick that finish was! Took many many hours of hand sanding... leaving my apartment balcony covered in white dust, as well as the balcony below mine, lol. The worst part is that when all the finish was off I was left with a funky mismatched 3-piece basswood body that would have been better off left alone. I just stained it super dark... I still have that messed up slab of crap laying around as a reminder of the stupidity of youth! :oops:

At least I saved the neck and its awesome bolted to a strat body...:cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Hahaha that's a lot of work for a big disappointnent. I'm glad I am painting it not trying to get a natural finish... Plus now I will know the construction of the body!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
676 Posts
Looks like you've got your work cut out, but I bet you're glad you're not sanding ;). Is it coming off in sheets or smaller and crumbly?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Mostly crumbly. On the flatter areas it's coming off in small sheets. But I'm taking it slow I don't want to screw anything up. The last picture is as far as I got last night, I wanted to unwind a bit before I had to go to bed. I'm going to take care of the rest this weekend.

It looks as though, possibly I'm not sure, that the factory may have screwed up the paint job and then repainted over it. If you look closely you'll see a silver base coat, then a red translucent coat, then another silver base coat and finally a red translucent coat which is the top coat. I see no reason to paint that much and that many layers, if you can achieve the candy coat with just a silver and then a translucent over it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
I'm not a paint expert by any means, but I think you're right to suspect a botched paint job. With a candy finish, it wouldn't make any sense to do another silver layer on top of the translucent red. Perhaps the red was already too thick, or uneven, so they just painted over it rather than taking it back down properly.

I can't wait to see how this turns out, though. I love the color you've chosen and you seem to be sufficiently patient to make this work out well. Thanks for pics you've posted and any more you'll upload along the way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
676 Posts
Hmm, probably right. I was also wondering what the deal was with the doubling up of the paint layers.

Looking good though. Flip flop paint on an R will be perfect - the curvy body allows for more interesting prismatic effects than a slab body.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
849 Posts
When I did my JS1 I didn't sand to wood. Just the clearcoat and some more. The white JS was still white. Filled the biggest scratches, sanded and painted white, sanded and more white. Ended up with about 1200 grit. Then put on the main color and there it was.


 
1 - 20 of 54 Posts
Top