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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Here's an update. The front was smooth sailing. The stuff just flakes off like frosted flakes cereal haha. The back however was a total pain. Took me twice as long to get off. But the bulk of it is off now. Just the thin... 1st base coat they did and what looks like a sealer. I am going to see what happens when I try to remove that... Some spots already are to bare wood.

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Looking good!

Just a note -- if you actually go deep enough to remove the sealer, you'll probably find that you've removed so much wood that the covers won't fit! I did that exact thing on an old Radius and had to make templates to reroute the cavities.. That old Ibanez sealer penetrates very deep and there's really no reason to remove it as it is still doing the job for which it was intended.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Well from scraping the in double cut away areas, I have some shallow gouges I need to sand out. Other than that my sanding is finished. My primer is a sealer as well. I want to get It smooth enough...and not over do it so I can apply the primer and sand the primer for the even-ness that I am looking for. Plus this paint shifting color requires a primer, base coat of black, the color shift paint... And then I would like to use 2 full cans of a 2k clear for a super durable finish. So I will definitely be adding a decent amount of material.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I have run into a snag. I bought a primer... And did not realize it was lacquer based... So now I have to sand it all off and get a different primer 🤦. Finally got a break in the weather and now I am dealing with clogging sand paper... It's miserable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Okay so, I have a question. I have sanded it down to the wood again. However the paint has filled in some grain of course. I don't think I can use anything else though... Unless it's an epoxy primer because an enamel primer will have a reaction to the lacquer primer correct? So I guess... I may be better off sticking with the primer I have and... Apply thin coats until the grain texture disappears through light sanding. I should have just invested the little extra cash into a better primer.
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Priming went well. The spray max stuff is awesome. The sprayer is completely adjustable... I've never seen such a thing on a spray can. I was able to dial in the fan, I highly recommend the stuff. It's expensive but worth the extra bucks.
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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I have an automotive 3m respirator I use for painting forklifts at work. It's has a brand new 6001 filter, I didn't wear anything protective, just some shorts and a t-shirt... But I have a box fan about 2 feet in front of the guitar, most of the over spray gets pulled away.
 

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I have an automotive 3m respirator I use for painting forklifts at work. It's has a brand new 6001 filter, I didn't wear anything protective, just some shorts and a t-shirt... But I have a box fan about 2 feet in front of the guitar, most of the over spray gets pulled away.
I use Spraymax 2k And know how lethal it is.
You need a full body cover all and full face protection and a really good mask ( an air feed is preferable) and if you don't have a spray booth you'll need to be outside.
It can enter your body and eyes with ease if you don't have full cover...seriously.

Just be really careful with 2k, it's absolutely lethal !
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
Well I definitely couldn't smell any paint while using my respirator. I wear glasses... Which have medium size Lenses and nitrile gloves. But I am going to pick up a set of safety goggles... And wear long sleeve shirts and pants the next clear coat session. I've been restoring/refurbishing heavy equipment for 15 years so I am familiar with painting safety... But I definitely want to make more of an effort considering your expression of caution.

I was painting at the entrance of my garage with a box fan right in front of it... It sits on my 96 gallon recycling can so the height is perfect. I would enter through the garage walk in door from the mud room, then go around back to re-enter the house. And after 15 mins I would go back out to do another coat... wearing my respirator and Holding a 1200 lumen flashlight to see if there were any particles in the air. Which there weren't any floating around. I hope that my common sense actions would/are enough to be safe. In my experience as long as you can't smell the paint or fumes while using the respirator you're safe. What respirator would you recommend? Or filter for a 3m mask?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
Okay so I've done some reading about isocyanates. If you can smell them you're over exposed... According to 3M my filters will filter them out, the only problem is isocyanates do not give off an odor at lower exposure levels... So there is no way for you to tell when it's time to change the filters... And if you can smell it, it's too late. So thankfully these were brand new filters when I started. Although I have sprayed 6 coats of primer... 3 coats of base coat, 3 of the chroma coat, and 5 clear coats. That's quite a bit of painting... So I am going to order new filters before I continue any more. And absolutely wear clothes that completely covers me... Goggles... A hat. At least I am outside. Christ I knew this stuff was dangerous but it definitely has me concerned. And now my brain is going to make me feel like I have symptoms of some issue even though I don't... Cuz that's my brain 😑. Thanks for the heads up Zoot.

Update: just bought a 3m 6800 series full face respirator... And a tripple pack of cartridges.
 
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