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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi just coming from here http://www.jemsite.com/forums/f16/ibanez-rg1527-vs-schecter-hellraiser-c-7-fr-133058.html ,
Pulled the trigger for the UV70p Universe!
I read some negative online reviews about Edge-Zero II-7 bridge. How would you rate it? Will it be reliable and durable? I am no stranger to fixing, setting up floyds. I have set up and even repaired two of floyds of mine. Where are the weak points of this bridge? Maybe the knife edges ?
 

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The major problem with all the EZ's is there is no steel saddle lockdown plate and you can strip the treads in the baseplate setting intonation. That's bad, don't do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The major problem with all the EZ's is there is no steel saddle lockdown plate and you can strip the treads in the baseplate setting intonation. That's bad, don't do it.
Thanx Rich,
You mean I will have to follow the one-finger rule when fastening those saddle bolts? Be more cautious than this? Or simply never touch them?

If this happens, Is there any remedy to this? except buying a new trem? Would a solution with e.g. Helicoil work?

Anyways, i haven't paid yet. Should I do it? Should I buy this?
 

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I've stripped 3 now and I don't overtighten anything.

Yes, helicoil is the answer if you can get somebody to do it, but if you strip one hole, don't touch any of the rest, they'll probably go too. I don't believe the metallurgy is equal with all the batches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I've stripped 3 now and I don't overtighten anything.

Yes, helicoil is the answer if you can get somebody to do it, but if you strip one hole, don't touch any of the rest, they'll probably go too. I don't believe the metallurgy is equal with all the batches.
Thanx Rich,

Don't you think the helicoil repair (or a variation) would be doable if someone does some practice on a spare plate?

so for 880 EUR new, would you think this is a good deal to go for?
And if i buy it, should i "stress test" it in the first month (while in the 30 days return period) and return it if broken?
Or should i just be careful during the 3 years guarantee and then never touch any saddle intonation bolt again?

in short should i buy it or not?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Alright guys, so if it breaks after the guarantee, is there any Gotoh/Floyd Rose direct fit replacement for this bridge? Or am i supposed to buy the whole thing for some 300 USD? (and hope it doesn't collapse again)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey, looking at the bottom of the plate :


wouldn't be possible to just glue a steel plate with a matching template from below - or just an individual nut, and then use the same metric bolts, just a little longer to bite the extra steel/or nut beneath?
 

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A great idea! Would be quite a bit of work. You would also have to make sure you have enough clearance from the bottom of the baseplate to the body.

In any case, as Rich pointed out with the issues with the bridge, I got rid of all of my J Custom and Prestige guitars that I had with the EZ Bridge. I liked it a lot at first but then I started having issues with one of them after a few years. Then the next guitar went south on me. That was enough for me to move back to Edge Pro guitars. No issues since.
 

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Hey, looking at the bottom of the plate :


wouldn't be possible to just glue a steel plate with a matching template from below - or just an individual nut, and then use the same metric bolts, just a little longer to bite the extra steel/or nut beneath?
That is a great idea. You could use the unused intonation bores to screw a new steel plate to the bottom.

You would have to recess the area of the body between the anchors to accommodate the depth of the new plate and any fasteners used. This would be a great fix for a stripped plate, but I wouldn't do it until one of them WAS stripped.

Conversely, If you knew a machinist you could get a steel plate recessed into the base- then the original intonation screws would be fine.
 

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It's gotta be 2mm thick so that's a lot of height to overcome with neck angle, but it's doable. You can use an edge plate on a 6, but not a 7 unless all the screws were in the front holes, and the B saddle on a 7 will always be in the rear hole. Since a machine shop would have to make the plate to begin with, helicoil is the logical answer. Helicoil all the holes and you'll never have to worry about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So, I suppose a better Ibanez MIJ tremolo or an after market tremolo e.g. OFR 7-string or FR 1000-7 string is out of the question?
Does it require serious mods/routing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Another solution maybe ? how about using rivets? drilling out the hole and attaching from below smth like a rivet :


with a tang strong enough to keep the saddle down.
 

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Another solution maybe ? how about using rivets? drilling out the hole and attaching from below smth like a rivet :


with a tang strong enough to keep the saddle down.
Not a bad idea, but I don't think you could get short enough threaded rivets to get them seated and still have a grip range. The thickest part of the base on my EZII-6 is only 5mm (D&G strings). it's only 4.2mm at the E strings.

I think Rich is right- Helicoil is probably the easiest way to go although I've never had any luck with helicoils. They never seem to install straight for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
RGTFanatic, this is what i am afraid of myself. Getting an instrument, and ending up hacking it, just a few years after.
So, this means, you had this problem happened to you? How many times? Did you have the helicoil installed by a pro, or by you?

Also, I would be grateful, if someone could give me an overview of the amount of mods/routings to fit a better bridge. Will a OFR-7 fit?
 

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So, this means, you had this problem happened to you? How many times?
Did you have the helicoil installed by a pro, or by you?
No, I've never had a single problem with an EZ or EZII. I've been doing automotive work for decades. Helicoil's are a common fix for broken exhaust manifold bolts, water pump bolts...etc.

Using a helicoil type of insert is entirely dependent on your ability to drill out a stripped thread to a larger diameter hole, then tap that hole with new threads. Tapping the new threads at the exact correct angle is difficult at best.
 

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Just coming around full circle-

there's really no need to fear damaging the threads in an EZII base plate. Yes, it has apparently happened to Rich, and I suspect a couple of other people. BUT, this is the first I've heard of the problem and the EZII has been out since 2011 and the EZ even before that. This has to be a very uncommon problem with a very low occurrence rate.

Should you (or anyone else) decide to buy the UV70P and you DO strip one or more of the threads- we can come up with a solid way to fix it at that point. If we were talking about a high-usage part (trem arm socket, fine tuner, stud) there would be cause for concern but, realistically, how often will you even think about setting the intonation?
 

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I've stripped 3 now and I don't overtighten anything.

Yes, helicoil is the answer if you can get somebody to do it, but if you strip one hole, don't touch any of the rest, they'll probably go too. I don't believe the metallurgy is equal with all the batches.
To quote something a very wise man told me back in 2003 when I cracked an EPII saddle in half:

"Obviously you did over tighten it- over tight for THAT saddle"..........:D
 
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