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Nope. Ibanez has boxed you in with a proprietary route.

Your choices really are
1. live with it
2. have someone mod the body and/or GE1996 trem as shown in the pics
3. block the trem and use the RG as a hardtail (what i'd do).

The reason why the GE1996 can be fit easiest is because it has one straight knife edge that lets it fit the 73mm spacing of Ibanez (or 74mm Floyd route). Even the Original Floyd Rose without fine tuners won't work with moving the studs.
 
I looked into this before i recently bought a used RG 320 FM although mine has the Edge Pro II. If i understand correctly the Edge 3 (which is slightly inferior to it) fits into the same cavity so i'm assuming the studs are the same spacing (not sure though), but i don't want to swap for an Edge 3 anyways as it isn't an upgrade.

The only choice that i have is to swap in an Edge Pro which are fairly expensive and harder to find now that they are discontinued and have been since 2010 (?), when the original Edge was brought back (best Ibanez trem imo) or i'd have to have someone modify the body. I guess i could also buy another body that is already routed for an Edge or lo-pro Edge but i don't think its worth it tbh. I'll give this guitar a shot since this bridge is in pretty nice condition and i'll just have to take it easy with the "dive bombs". I already have an '89 Kramer Sustainer for the crazy stuff anyways ;)

But yes, basically your choices are what jemsite has stated in the above post.

But my point is to look up information before buying something, like i did. It can make all the difference in the world.
 
Well, I guess I'll try to mod it out. I saw a lot of great reviews about GE1996 trem anyway. Would it be okay for me to choose a 36mm block model?

Also, guys, what can you tell about…
I have the same model of the guitar and that guy seems to be able to swap its Edge III with FR Special. As far as I know, they are the same dimensions wise with OFR.

And the last thing I'd like to ask. buildAndPLay in his post uses 40mm long M4 screws, but there wasn't mentioned is it total length or the length of the screw itself.

The first thing I did was order some M4 x 0.7 by 40 mm long socket head screws. The original screws are 44 mm long. I then used a bench grinder to taper the ends so that they would engage the little hole in the string holders. Here's a photo of the original screw and one I altered. I ended up putting a longer taper on them in the end, but you get the idea...

Image
Almost every 40mm M4x0.7 I've found on the internet have the total length of 44 or 43mm. Should I consider this fact or it's better to judge on the actual name of a selling item? May I get 35mm just to be sure or it won't be long enough? Is it okay to use, mm… «all-way-long» screws instead of «half-plain» ones as in the buildAndPLay's example? See the attachment to compare.
 

Attachments

I ordered the 40 mm long screws and ended up shortening them all. I can't give you the exact lengths without pulling them, but I didn't make them all the same. I shortened each one enough to make sure it didn't hit the finished part of the guitar when the tremolo is pulled back (or when you remove the strings). Because each saddle is in a different position, some screws need to be shorter than others. You could make them all the same length as the shortest one, and then the ends of the screws will be staggered just like the saddles. In my case the ends of the screws are fairly consistent, which I think looks better anyway.

Image
 
Hello everyone,

This is my first post ever. I have gone through this entire topic (Edge III has been giving us trouble for 11 years and 26 forum pages).

One thing is clear: The direct replacement for Edge III bridge is the Edge Pro bridge, no modifications needed whatsoever.

But let's face it: It is 2018, the Edge Pro bridge has been discontinued for quite a while now, and you can only get to see them on ebay. The ones that I've seen are quite worn out. Ibanez Rules has a couple new ones for $270 but I want to explore more options... Ultimately I'd end up buying one of those

I've been looking for a low profile floating bridge to replace the Edge III bridge in my RG, hopefully one that may require NO heavy modifications to my guitar (no drilling, no sanding, no woodwork involved) and I have stumbled upon two possible options:

1) Floyd Rose 1000 Series Pro (Like the one in the EBMM JP16)
2) Floyd Rose Pro

Looks like these two, when installed, they go flush with the body and the only modification that they would require is to get shims in the saddles to adjust to the Wizard II neck radius. But there is still some things that I'm worried about:

1) The distance between the posts in the Edge III cavity will fit the distance for the posts in any of these bridges?
- By checking the dimensions in the FR site, both of them have a post distance of 73.91 milimeters.
2) String spacing: Taking this in consideration, I'm leaning towards the 1000 series since the string spacing in the 1000 series is the same as in the Floyd Rose original, which I understand that works fine with as a replacement for Edge III, but I understand that the FR Pro has a better quality than the FR 1000. Again, I would like to have a balance between quality, low profile in the bridge and compatibility with the Edge III cavity.
- Does anyone know the string spacing in Edge III? I've been looking for proper Edge III dimensions EVERYWHERE, with no fulfilling results. I'd have to measure the Edge III myself, but not having a caliper gives room to hell of a lot of uncertainty.

Thank you!
 
Don't worry about string spacing, all Floyd Rose type systems use the same string spacing.
A few fractions of a millimetre are neither here nor there, the same goes for the pivot post spacing.
As long as the unit fits the cavity then it will work, don't overthink this, simply get the best unit you can afford.
 
Thanks for your answer sepulchrave. Yeah, I've been doing some rough measuring and it looks like the Edge III and the Floyd Rose 1000 Pro series have basically the same dimensions as per "cavity population", let's say. Now my next worry is how many shims should I put under the saddles to match the 400mmR radius of the Wizard II.

I know, I might be overthinking this. But I just want to get this guitar to play as good as it can :)
 
There is almost no chance at all that your existing locking nut matches the radius of the fretboard so your concerns are groundless, there is no place for perfectionism, life is too short, if you really can't make a decision then I suggest you seek spiritual guidance.
You have a budget RG so it's limitations extend to more than just the tremolo unit, perhaps you should simply buy a better quality instrument with a better tremolo system already installed.
 
The Edge nut on my Jem 777 doesn't match the width of the neck, the Floyd Rose nut on my Strat also doesn't match it, though both have proper string spacing and radius isn't an issue. Regarding the Floyd Rose Pro, I actually fitted one on my Strat last week to replace my Schaller style Floyd Rose II. The supplied nut (about 40mm) with the Floyd Pro was the same as the previous nut but the trem is definitely narrower string spacing and you can notice it, depending on your preference it could be seen as a good thing but it's definitely a difference.

I haven't got an Edge III or Edge pro to measure but the string spacing on an Original Edge or OFR is roughly 4mm wider than on a Floyd Rose Pro. The Floyd 1000 Pro is the Korean version and that shares the standard OFR string spacing. Also worth noting is that unlike a Schaller or OFR design the Pro versions are a bit like an Ibanez Lo-Pro, all of the fine tuning parts route through the trem and hang underneath it lower than the base plate and need more space under the trem to move, it might not be an issue on an Ibanez though since their back routes are huge but it takes up more room than an OFR.

Just get a Gotoh GE1996T and route it if you need to make space.
 
So, I ended up getting an Edge Pro from Cottam Guitars. It was a bit expensive, yes, but considering that the exchange rate with my local currency (Costa Rican colones) dropped down a little bit, I felt I had to take that opportunity and get that bridge once and for all. It was a good investment, tho.

I really like this bridge's super low profile: drop-ion replacement, very comfortable to play, and rock solid stability. Honestly, I didn't expected this much of a difference. A couple pics here:

Before:
Image


After:
Image
 
Greetings to all.

What are the options with low profile without routing and quality to replace a Edge Pro bridge on a RGT3020?

My guitar is incredible but my hands sweat a lot and the Chrome of the saddles is off. I don't want to replace the bridge with another Edge Pro...

Thanks in advance.
 
reply to: denidogma:

I had the same problem with a Lo Pro Edge...
Beautiful thing was that a luthier, while refreshing, simply repainted it black (not sure with what type of paint, but it stayed perfectly on for a few years later after i had the guitar at my possession)...cost was like 20$...

Ask around with the luthier...and good luck!
as replacing the whole term just for cosmetics is an ineffective cost...!
 
to sum up for May, 2020:
Edge Pro is still the only direct drop-in/no mod replacement for Edge III?

ps: not only expensive, that is ok...but even more annoying thing is that edge pro demands a mod on its own...not talking about the locking studs, but Schaller term arm mod...because stock pop in mechanism is not working... i had a new one, and simply it was impossible, even with new bushings and perfect set up, to have it locked tight in place...
i had a fresh new rg1570, mirage red back in the time..and prior strapping a guitar, i had to put fkn parts of nylon bag on pop-in slot..that was the one-time solution...and became teh practice...
edge/lo pro/edge pro..they all have this flaw, which is not small in my book... id always go for OFR collar type, but no one asked me:D
 
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