[ibanezcollector]

ok little update. Using the steps above for creating natural wear I put another spot on the back by the tummy contour. This also is a major natural wear spot on guitars since the finish is much thinner there than on the flat surfaces.

Also if you remember from the earliest of posts when I had the parts all layed out, that the bridge was already reliced from a earlier project. Well 10 hrs or so in the mixture of salt brine and vinegar we now have a really reliced bridge, since were doing a heavy relic on this one its going to look fantastic. I should probably wipe down the dust and debris before taking pictures LOL

If anyone wants to donate a better camera feel free LOL

Stay tuned the funs just beginning

 

[ibanezcollector]

ok here we go.. Body dings and dents..

**Now this is totally up to you on how you want it to look. Also there is a certain art to this, I recommend people find a picture of a worn/vintage instrument and try to replicate it. **

Ok first thing lets intruduce the tools of the trade at this point. First up we have our heat gun.

Next up is the 4 tools I use for all my relic bodys. A pair of jewelers screwdrivers(flat and phillips), a hobby knife, and a set of keys.

To simulate light bumps and bruises, take a set of keys and hit the body. Pretty simple one would think. BUT ITS NOT SO EASY. You do not want to lay into the body like your trying to kill someone. Just light and simple whacks. Were trying to make dents and dings, not take paint off.

As you can see now, we got plenty of wounds, make up a story how this one is from dropping your guitar on stage when opening for the Stones, and this was when ya were drunk with "inset name here" and knocked your amp over LOL..

Now here is where it gets tricky. My main tool is the very small jewelers flat head screwdriver. First you need to heat the body up, now im not talking to the point paint is bubbling, im just talking adding a little heat to make the paint soft. You do not need to have the heat gun right up against the paint. I usually keep it a minimum of 3-4" away. Turn the heat gun off and put it somewhere safely. Now pick up the jewelers screwdriver and begin taking the paint off, this is essentially a small paint scraper with control. And begin simulating the wear patterns you liked in that picture, or what you think would look cool.

 

[ibanezcollector]

I CAN NOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH. A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY..

This step is entirely up to you, this is where the magic happens or a disaster starts. There is no science to it, there is no perfect way, its something that just has to be practiced over and over again. After a few relics you will learn from your mistakes and you will learn what to do if something came out the way you intended. ITS A ARTFORM, its not about draggin it behind your truck, you are removing paint a couple millimeters at a time.. Use different techniques and angles, come from the right, come from the left. Straight up and down, poke it, use a skipping motion, etc etc.. BE CREATIVE..Think outside the box, if it looks to thought out, it will be apparent.

After the paint has been removed to the way you like it, bust out that 0000ga steel wool and rub the area down. This will remove some rough edges and make it blend a little smoother with the finish.

You do not always have to go thru to the wood. Like here in this picture depending on the angle of the Jewelers Flat head screwdriver, you can use it to go to the wood, or just scrape accross the clear coat.

Sorry for the bad picture I had to wipe it down with something to get the dust off, and black is probably not the best color to do a tutorial with. But here is a shot of the work I have done on the back so far.

Another shot of not going thru the color coat, just thru the clear.. This is all dependent on the angle.

There is not much I can say to make this part easier I wish there was.. Now knowing that the paint is being taken of one little piece at a time. How long do you think it took me to do this..

Take your time, have fun, and BE CREATIVE.. ok im going back to work..

 

[ibanezcollector]

ok parts were taken out about 3 hrs ago.. They have air dried, as you can see the chrome parts just arent right yet, where the nickel and steel parts are perfect.. So those parts stay out the stuff that still needs work will go back in the brine for a couple more days.

First another shot of the bridge

and here is the parts.

Is this tutorial so far helpful to anyone? Feel free to ask questions or concerns.

as usual.. Stay Tuned..

 

[ibanezcollector]

alright last update for the night..

Back is done and trem is installed.. Again I wish I had a lighter color to do this tutorial with.. Black hides alot of the details but when its done and finished I will take it to work and use the Canon D50 in natural lighting.

I put the neck against the body just for some visual appeal

 

[waylay00]

Looks very nice there! Defintely an art form.

Although I prefer for that stuff to happen naturally, as I think it creates the guitar's story.

 

[WillTubarao]

awesome stuff, keep it up!!!

 

[bikeman]

Great thread!

 

[Jason Stone]

This auction has lots of great close-ups of an '63 strat that has lots of wear: 220089363410. Should give you DIYers a good idea of what to shoot for if you decide to relic your own guitar.

 

[sick-boy]

Looks very nice there! Defintely an art form.

Although I prefer for that stuff to happen naturally, as I think it creates the guitar's story.

Except I don't know if it would look like this with more modern guitars. Different paint process and different parts.
I'm not saying that a guitar wouldn't age, I just don't think the modern ones would look the same as the old ones.

 

[fettouhi]

Looking better and better.

Regards

André

 

[ibanezcollector]

Ok here we go Update time..

Two of these updates will be text only since its a easy step.

Ok our neck is been dry long enough. Next step is easy just get your 0000ga steel wool and lightly sand it smooth. Simple enough.. Now if you want you can very gently take the key method explained about and nick up the headstock edges. She is done. If you want you can buy some clear coat and respray the back of the neck and then rub it with the 0000ga to take the gloss off, some people just dont like the raw wood feel. I LOVE IT.. also if you want you can buy tinted clear for that amberish look if your neck is real bright.

The next step is the pickguard. It should be dry enough you want to very gently brush off the steel wool dust. The reason we left it on there is when its finally of it will leave some places lighter than the rest of the guard, all be it very small its a detail. If you want to lock in the look you could spray it with a clear and then take the 0000ga and buff the gloss down like we did on the body.

And finally we need pictures of the body done front and back.. Were getting close to the end here.. Next were going to discuss more detail work to finish it off.

 

[ibanezcollector]

Ok folks shes done and on **** if anyones interested.

Some of the detail work I was going to go into.. Pickguard cracks is always a good one, taking dust from the vacuum cleaner and sprinkle it on the bridge.. Take a brush and wipe it down with it, dirt will stay where its supposed to and not where it isnt. Stickers, etc.. just small details..

Anywhere here we go. Hope this has been a helpful tutorial..

 

[ibanezcollector]

 

[ibanezcollector]

 

[Axayacatl]

that is too cool

 

[7Plagues]

very nice tutorial and relic job. thank you for taking the time to post it. very informative and helpful.

 

[JoeJoe]

Very cool! That looks amazing

Thanks for the tutorial!

 

[540s]

....

Edited for removal of the truth

 

[7Plagues]

I have a quick body question for you. After you reliced it, did you do coat it with anything at all or just cleaned it up and left as is?